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Text 12114, 102 rader
Skriven 2007-02-21 06:37:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av BARBARA MCNAY
Ärende: UN-EARTHLY 94
=====================
 BM> I don't understand, then, why the meat doesn't simply taste like more
 BM> well-done meat.  There's something about its having been in the
 BM> refrigerator, or perhaps exposed to air, since it's slices of meat that
 BM> I re-warm. 

Might be. Oxygen does interesting things, both good and bad.

 BM> I hadn't thought of that.  Why, then, doesn't the same meat, which
 BM> warmed, tastes warmed-over, also taste off when cold?  I like cold
 BM> leftover meat, and I generally eat it that way.

The bugs stay kind of dormant until you warm them up, when
they start to multiply rapidly, so that's why if you reheat
something, they tell you to do it thoroughly, to bring the
food up to the temperature that would destroy pathogens. Of
course, as you point out above, the food doesn't taste so
good then.

 BM> didn't bother me especially.  I have read that one becomes accustomed
 BM> to the heat, and I have this experience that I can believe it. However,
 BM> when I eat hot food, I am disinclined to repeat the experience,
 BM> regardless.  I don't like to hurt when I eat!
 
Understood! But for me, unless the food is horribly overspiced,
the hurt goes away after one bite, maybe two.

Smoked Chicken Liver Pate
cat: starter
yield: 2 lb

1 1/2 lb fresh chicken livers
Sherry
2 Tb butter, unsalted
1 md onion, sliced
3 cloves garlic, sliced
1 pn red pepper flakes
1 Tb black pepper
1 Tb salt
2 ts dry sage or 2 Tb fresh sage
1 c heavy cream
1/4 c capers, rinsed in fresh water
1/4 c sherry vinegar
8 oz pk cream cheese, room temperature

1. Trims livers of fat and remove congealed blood from
veins. Pat dry livers. If you choose not to smoke the
livers, which is entirely optional, then proceed to
step 2. Otherwise, rig a stove top smoker with two
disposable aluminum roasting pans, wood chips, and a
rack. In one pan, pile chips in far end, elevate rack
with balls of foil, arrange livers on rack away from
chips. Do not arrange livers directly above chips or
they will cook before they are smoked. Place second
pan over first as a cover. Seal edges with foil, leaving
a vent near livers, away from chips, in order to draw
smoke towards livers. Place smoker on stove of well-
ventilated kitchen, with chips over a low flame until
they smolder. Or use a grill outside. If livers cook
through during smoking, then skip step 3.

2. In a sauce pan on low heat, melt butter and sweat
onions and garlic (no color), then season with chili,
pepper, salt and sage. When soft, add cream and reduce
until thick, 20-30 min, remove from flame, then add
capers. Leave to cool to room temperature.

3. Ideally, livers should be raw, but smoked. Have the
sherry handy. Heat a saute pan on high flame, add canola
oil, season livers with salt and pepper. Place livers in
pan in one, even layer. Do not crowd the livers or they
will steam rather than brown and you will not have the
tastiest livers possible. When brown on one side, flip
the livers, sear the other side, quickly remove to a
sheet pan when medium rare (cooked-through livers are
mealy), deglaze pan with sherry. Always add alcohol
with the pan away from the burner so as to avoid flare-
ups, burns, and fires. Return pan to burner, scraping
the bottom with a wooden spoon. Add tasty bits reduction
to livers. Repeat until all livers are seared.

4. Prepare a mold. Line with plastic wrap, with ample
plastic hanging over the sides. Fill half full with water
and gently tug excess plastic in order to remove air
pockets under the plastic. Discard water.

5. In batches, combine livers and cream reduction in
food processor. Puree, pouring in vinegar and adding
cream cheese a few spoonsful at a time. Process until
smooth. Or force through a sieve with a rubber spatula.
Mix all batches together and taste. Now is the time for
final seasoning. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour into
prepared mold, fold over excess plastic, tamp down, and
allow to cool overnight.

6. Remove from pan, slice with a hot dry knife, and serve
with cornichon, mustard, crackers, greens, etc.


Les Zygomates, Boston
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