Text 20158, 132 rader
Skriven 2007-09-08 10:44:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av GLEN JAMIESON
Ärende: CANDY & FOOD BARS 109
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 GJ> Slow eating is good, although not popular in crowded restaurants when
 GJ> a queue is waiting at the door.  What is not so good, for the
 GJ> restaurant owners or the world, is that apparent waste of food.

Crowded restaurants, I agree, are not the setting for slow eating,
but then the setting sets the pace a lot of the time, and crowds
impel you to eat faster (and talk louder!).

 GJ> I have dined at an AYCE restaurant in Manila where there were signs
 GJ> saying that an additional charge would be made for uneaten food left

That is a good idea, though hard to enforce.

 GJ> on the plate.  Another sign said that only one person per plate was
 GJ> allowed.  That looked as if the owner had had experience of customers
 GJ> stretching their Peso to the maximum they could get away with.

A completely different phenomenon, but I balk at this particular
enforcement. When I am at a buffet that also serves a la carte,
I do trades of my food and other people's food; the total amount
of food that gets exchanged is fairly similar. Anyhow, if the
non-AYCE party is snitching substantial amounts off the AYCE
plate, doesn't that imply quite strongly that the a la carte food
was either not plentiful enough or not good enough?

=
 JW> 250 G  conpoy
 GJ> I have no idea what that is.

Dried scallop, extremely expensive, but a little goes a long way.

 JW> 100 G  hibi (dried shrimp)
 GJ> Common enough, but not under that name.

Looks like a variation of the Japanese "ebi," not a huge
surprise as the Philippines and other South China Sea peoples
have absorbed or adapted lots of cultures over the centuries.

 JW> 50 G  Chinese ham
 JW> 50 G  dried fish meat(daing) in
 GJ> A particularly smelly, salty dried fish with lots of fine bones.

Dace, no? Or am I thinking of some other smelly, salty dried fish.

 GJ> Sounds like a lot of trouble to make a fishy sauce.

The art is to the making of a umami sauce without its being
over fishy. A real XO sauce doesn't have smelly, salty fish
but rather large quantities of the worth-its-weight-in gold
main ingredient. Actually, 250g is a lot - for top quality
conpoy, that could be up to US$50 worth.

Another costly and umami-filled recipe -

Pine nut crust
cat: pie crust
yield: 3

10 oz pine nuts
1/3 c sugar
3 c flour
8 oz sweet butter, at room temp
1 lg egg
1 ts vanilla

Pulse nuts in food processor a few times; then add
sugar and flour; process until nuts are ground fine.
Add remaining ingredients; mix until incorporated.
Divide dough into thirds. Wrap each piece in plastic
and refrigerate at least 10 min before using. May
be frozen.

Thomas Keller

Lemon tart
cat: dessert, celebrity
servings: 8

butter
flour
1/3 recipe pine nut crust, cold
h - lemon sabayon
2 lg eggs, cold
2 lg egg yolks, cold
3/4 c sugar
1/2 c fresh lemon juice
6 Tb sweet butter, chilled, in 6 pieces
h - honeyed mascarpone cream
1/2 c heavy cream
3 Tb mascarpone
1 Tb honey

Lemon-sabayon pine nut tart with honeyed mascarpone cream

Oven at 350F.

Generously butter and flour a 9" fluted tart pan with a
removable bottom. Chill.

Pat crust into bottom and up sides of tart pan with your
fingertips. Trim off any excess. Bake crust 10-15 min;
then rotate 180o and bake until golden, another 10-15 min.
Let cool. Ignore small cracks in the crust.

In bowl of a double boiler, whisk eggs, yolks, and sugar
until smooth, about 1 min. Set over simmering water and
continue to whisk, turning the bowl, until mixture is
foamy and thickened, about 2 min. Add 1/3 the lemon
juice; continue whisking until thickened; add another
1/3 juice; repeat. Whisk until mixture is thick and the
whisk leaves a trail in the bottom of the bowl. Total
cooking time should be 8-10 min. Turn off the heat but
keep the bowl over the water. Whisk in the butter one
piece at a time. Sabayon may loosen but will thicken
as it cools. Pour the mixture into the tart shell. Place
the pan on a baking sheet.

Preheat the broiler. Broil the tart for a few seconds,
turning if necessary to brown evenly. Remove from heat.
Let cool 1 hr before serving at room temperature with
honeyed mascarpone cream on the side; may be refrigerated
and served cold.

For the mascarpone cream: In a bowl set over ice, whisk
the cream until frothy. Add cheese and honey and whisk
2 min or until thick and smooth.

Thomas Keller

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