Text 21778, 104 rader
Skriven 2007-10-23 08:05:00 av Glen Jamieson
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I'm still trying to get msgs out, every day.  So far no luck.

If this makes it, one for veggies...

MMMMM----- Recipe via Meal-Master (tm) v8.05
 
      Title: CHEONG LIEW - LIGHT FANTASTIC
 Categories: Info, Liew, Adelaide
      Yield: 1 servings
 
           ;
 
  KITCHEN LEGEND CHEONG LIEW MAKES LIGHT WORK OF A CROP OF VEGETARIAN
  CREATIONS.
  
  There's an obvious move by many Australian chefs towards lighter &
  healthier menus, which for some might be mere talking the talk, but
  for Cheong Liew, a kitchen legend in his home town & afar, it's all
  about the practice of cooking here & now.
  
  In his residency at Hilton Adelaide's Grange restaurant, now
  celebrating its 10th year, Cheong has come to point where his various
  menus bring together French, Russian, Mediterranean, Japanese,
  Indian, Chinese & his own native Malaysian cuisines. It's a concept
  he calls Edible Harmony, celebrating "the pleasures of Australia's
  clean & green seasonal ingredients & the philosophy that food is
  eating you way to health".
  
  This thinking has several new expressions now, one of which is "The
  Maestro's Vegetarian", a 6-course degustation that comes with
  optional wine matches.
  
  For vegetarians, this is a rare opportunity to be seated in first
  class, as often in other venues they are relegated to lower citizen
  class.
  
  Not so at the Grange, which is livelier than ever, an overhaul in the
  past year adding a lounge at the front, exotic red flowers & fronds
  adding colour, & all the finery of the fair, with layers of linen,
  glassware always on the move, water attended to meticulously, cutlery
  refreshed &, with thr redesign of other ground floor spaces, a better
  connection with the hotel- its lobby position has long been a sight
  directed at the restaurant.
  
  Here, it's all about food, the Maestro's Vegetarian beginning with a
  small palate teaser of lentil broth capped with cauliflower cream.
  How its dense flavour marries with a large glass of bubbles is the
  first of many culinary mysteries encountered during this meal.
  
  The first course itself comes in four parts, a vegetarian version of
  Cheong's famed Four Dances of the Sea. A slim rectangular plate
  carries a cold roll of 2 kinds of tofu skin intensely flavoured by
  ginger juice, beside it a little slab of smoked tofu & soy beans with
  slivers of fungi.
  
  Moving from Asia comes with a shot of tarragon-infused tomato broth
  topped by tiny diced gazpacho, then to finish, an amazing little
  shaved hazelnut tartlet holding a classic Indian eggfruit pickle.
  
  In just the first course, there are rich textual, spice & salty
  treasyres that sing songs of real joy with the matched glass of
  Paracombe riesling.
  
  To spell out its fullness the excitement in this menu would yake a
  book- my notes alone stretch for pages, but there are highlights. A
  second course of young vegetables is like stepping into a Chinese
  herbalist; angelica roots in half moons, bright ochre-tinged
  wolfberries & lily bulbs provide a touch of bitters, soft crunch & a
  dusty, earthy spectrum of flavours. Rare & intriguing.
  
  Although it seems early on that this Asian-dominated experience, in
  reality at least half the dishes have European roots. An eggfruit
  timbale, for instance, comes from the Mediterranean but has beside it
  a sly chef's joke in a cute pile of enoki mushrooms lightly dredged
  in starch & fried to emulate the finest salt & pepper squid. Amazing.
  
  The cheese course is a clever duet of warm gorgonzola & mascarpone
  cheeses with a raw witlof salad sprinkled with saffron. And dessert
  is a flourless choclate cake with a soft, putty purity, beside it
  anis parfait & macerated prunes celebrating a genuine synergy between
  plum, locorice & cocoa. Majestic, with a dense, dark, '02 Morris
  liqueur muscat.
  
  The sum of the parts in this dish alone is wonderful, though toward
  the end of the night cigarette smoke from the lobby bar wafts into
  the Grange & detracts momentarily from the gastronomic mountain being
  climbed.
  
  The requirement to taste Cheong Liew's food has often been likened as
  a necessary pilgimage for gourmands. Now vegetarians can be included
  in the pleasure. And for Adelaideans, another reminder: Don't forget
  the genius of the kitchen- & don't write your next will without
  dining here first. Certain experiences are simply irreplacable.
  
  From: THE ADVERTISER, FOOD&WINE [24 AUGUST 2005] By: TONY LOVE Typed
  by: KEVIN JCJD SYMONS, FEBRUARY 2006
 
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 * Origin: Braintap BBS Adelaide Australia (3:800/449)