Text 6708, 103 rader
Skriven 2006-10-18 22:34:00 av JIM WELLER (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av JOAN MACDIARMID
Ärende: Hungarian dishes
========================
 -=> Quoting Joan Macdiarmid to Jim Weller <=-

 JW> Dumplings can be light and fluffy...
 JW> whisk the yolks
 JW> whip the whites

 JM> Well, yes, but that's not the way they do dumplings
 JM> in Eastern Europe. They really are more like pasta
 JM> lumps.

You're right. It's more common in various western Euro countries (and
North America as well).

MMMMM-----Meal-Master - formatted by MMCONV  2.10

     Title: New Year, New Dumpling
Categories: Dumplings, Info
  Servings: 1 text file

           By JOAN NATHAN, NY Times

TRADITION has it that there is a dumpling for every Jewish holiday:
kreplach, the Jewish tortellini, for the meal before Yom Kippur; dough
pockets filled with cottage cheese for Shavuot; and matzo balls for
Passover. But Jewish food has become so diverse, how about a taste of
another kind of tradition for Rosh Hashana on Friday night? A new
dumpling for the holiday

I first found gundi, a cardamom-flavored chickpea and chicken dumpling,
15 years ago when I met Azizeh Koshki, who had just emigrated from Iran.
She plopped herself on the floor of her townhouse in Rockville, Md.,
where she turned on her newly acquired American food processor to grind
chicken and onions. Next, she added chickpea flour and cardamom to the
mixture, molding the dumplings by hand and simmering them in a soupy
chicken stew spiced with turmeric. As I watched her, I wondered whether
her ingredients and technique, other than the food processor , went back
to the Babylonian captivity or even earlier. Mrs. Koshki told me,
through a translator, that her family ate gundi, with a sip of the
spirit arrack, each Friday night after they walked home from synagogue.
The gundi were always garnished with spring onions, basil, parsley,
cilantro, radish and mint and served with a piece of lavash or other
flat bread.

From years of living in Israel, I came to adore kubbeh, soup with
dumplings made from semolina and bulgur, filled with meat. They would
float in soupy stews made of chicken broth, sometimes flavored with
pumpkin, dried limes, tomatoes or okra. I would eat them in tiny
restaurants run by Kurdish or Iraqi Jews and, on the Sabbath, in their
homes. Most Israeli supermarkets stock frozen kubbeh , always the sign
of a food becoming part of the common culture.

Kibbe, made throughout in the Middle East in places like Lebanon, Iraq,
Iran and Kurdistan, is bulgur and lamb served raw, baked or fried,
stuffed with rice and spices. Kubbeh, the Jewish dumpling for soup, is
borrowed from these cultures. Kubbeh has become a holiday food, with the
sauces or soups changing with the season. Pnina Lahav, a professor of
law at Boston University and an avid cook, whose mother was considered a
kubbeh queen in Tel Aviv, occasionally makes her mother's semolina
dumplings in a soupy sauce of beets, plums and celery. In the Middle
East they say that the thinner the dough of the kubbeh, the better the
cook, she said. A good kubbeh is the sign of a good wife But, she added:
Kubbeh is not for working women. In our world today it is inconceivable
that you would make it every Friday night.

Matzo balls seem like a universal Jewish icon, but that wasn't true
until the B. Manischewitz Company produced the first commercial matzo at
the turn of the last century and then began promoting its matzo and,
later, its matzo meal and matzo ball mix. Until then, matzo balls were
strictly a Passover dish, and dumplings, called knoedel, also known as
kneidlach in Yiddish or kleis in German, made with breadcrumbs, bread
or flour, filled their role at others times of the year. Manischewitz
was in the business of finding ways of making people use their
machine-made matzo products all year round, Dr. Sarna said. In 1930,
Manischewitz's Tempting Kosher Dishes cookbook called matzo balls made
with prepared matzo meal feather balls, Alsatian style.

Rabbi Everett Gendler acknowledged that feather was not an image that
came to mind in describing his first efforts to make whole wheat matzo
balls. Rabbi Gendler, a retired chaplain of Phillips Academy Andover now
living in Great Barrington, Mass., said that before whole-wheat matzo
meal came on the market, he would either grind whole-wheat matzos or
bake his own with soft winter wheat ground with an old hand peanut
grinder. The first couple of years I did it, it was advisable to wear
steel-tipped work boots in case I dropped one of the balls on my foot,''
he said. After a few years they lightened up. Because I have gotten the
feel of it, I don't squeeze them so tightly. Now I treat them like matzo
balls, not like Play-Doh.
                                       
From: Simon Bao To: Gastronomique
 
MMMMM-------------------------------------------------

Cheers

Jim, in Yellowknife




... The poor person eats potato soup; the rich person, vichyssoise
___ Blue Wave/386 v2.30
--- Platinum Xpress/Win/WINServer v3.0pr5
 * Origin: Try Our Web Based QWK: DOCSPLACE.ORG (1:123/140)