Text 10856, 109 rader
Skriven 2008-07-20 19:04:00 av JIM WELLER (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av MICHAEL LOO
Ärende: Re: fancy tastes 627
============================
-=> Quoting Michael Loo to Jim Weller <=-

 JW> Vietnamese who now speek English well

 ML> They do, do they? What 'bout the Anglos?

Us? Not so good!

I just read an interesting article on how upscale burgers are
becoming all the rage in France. I'll post some recipes later.
Here's the article edited down with the fluff removed and just
some recipe concepts left...

MMMMM-----Meal-Master - formatted by MMCONV  2.10

     Title: In Paris, Burgers Turn Chic By Jane Sigal Ny Times
Categories: Info, French, Groundmeat, Sandwiches
  Servings: 1 text file

           hamburgers

Steak hache, a pan-seared patty made with lean meat pressed into an
oval and served without a bun and steak tartare are more
traditional. But hamburgers and cheeseburgers have invaded the city,
even in restaurants run by three-star chefs. But as French chefs
have embraced the quintessentially American food, they have also
made it their own, incorporating Gallic flourishes like cornichons,
fleur de sel and fresh thyme.

Frederick Grasser-Herme, consulting chef at the Champs-Elysees Black
Calvados, developed a burger made with wagyu beef and seasoned with
what she calls a black ketchup of blackberries and black currants.

Yannick Alleno, of Le Meurice, serves a thick, succulent hamburger
at his casual restaurant, Le Dali. With smoked bacon, lettuce, dill
pickles, mustard, mayonnaise and fries.

Romain Corbiere, the chef at Alain Ducasse's restaurant Le Relais du
Parc, in a Norman-style manor near Trocadero, cooks a seasonal
burger a la plancha. This summer Mr. Corbiere, a veteran of Mr.
Ducasse's Louis XV in Monaco, is substituting a shrimp and squid
patty for the beef burger he served in cooler weather.

L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon offers Le Burger, actually two small
burgers topped with slabs of foie gras of almost equal size.

"A hamburger is the architecture of taste par excellence. The meat
needs to be a mix of fatty and lean. Not raw, not rare. It must be
medium rare. At the same time the bread needs to be smooth, tepid,
toasted on the sesame side. I like to brush the soft side with
butter. There needs to be a crispy chiffonade of iceberg lettuce.
Everything plays a role."

In developing the Salle Pleyel burger, Ms. Samuel and Ms. Ezgulian
felt the weight of tradition. "We're a little terrified of making a
mistake," said Ms. Samuel. "We cling to things like the soft buns,
sweet-and-sour pickles, onions, tomatoes, cheese. We need these
guideposts because we don't have the history, the context.
Otherwise, for us, it's not a burger. It's a hot sandwich." Yet Ms.
Ezgulian has taken some liberties. The current version of her burger
is a riff on steak tartare. She's kneaded a mixture of chopped
sun-dried tomatoes and tangy cornichons and capers into the ground
meat. Parmesan shavings stand in for the usual Cheddar.

Celine Parrenin, a co-owner of Coco & Co invented the Cocotte
Burger. The Cheddar cheeseburger, with pine nuts and thyme mixed
into the meat, sits on a toasted whole-wheat English muffin
pedestal. In a wink at the restaurant's egg theme and recalling the
time-honored steak a cheval, a fried egg is placed on top.

For Mr. Alleno's burgers, Mr. Le Bourdonnec delivers a mix of chuck
and beef rib. But the butcher thinks the American T-bone steak is an
ideal cut. The T-bone does not exist in France, but to make his
point, Mr. Le Bourdonnec made his own. He combined a piece of filet,
which is tender but less flavorful, with a piece of contrefilet,
which is marbled and tasty, but slightly less tender. Using a long,
razor-sharp knife, he sliced the meat into quarter-inch dice,
chopped it fine with a cleaver and shaped it into patties, to be
cooked rare in a hot skillet filmed with olive oil. No bun, no
pickles, no cheese, no special sauce; only a few grains of fleur de
sel. "That's not a burger, Papa," pointed out his 13-year-old son,
Paul. "There's no bread."

Ketchup does not automatically come with a burger. If requested, it
may appear in a porcelain bowl. At the Cafe Salle Pleyel, servers do
produce a ketchup bottle on demand.

Many customers insist on using silverware. "Eating with your hands
is part of the pleasure," Ms. Fontanier said, seated in a dining
room decorated chiefly with her 15-year-old son's childhood toy
collection. "But nine out of 10 people use knife and fork. I'm happy
not to see it. I'm in the kitchen."

Parisians don't really understand about drinking a milkshake with
the burger. They order it as dessert.


  From: Simon Bao                       
 
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Cheers

YK Jim


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