Text 11475, 114 rader
Skriven 2008-08-02 00:29:00 av JIM WELLER (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av GLEN JAMIESON
Ärende: Re: MAGPIES & CROWS 80730
=================================
-=> Quoting Glen Jamieson to Hap Newsom <=-

 GJ> Recently a review was made
 GJ> of the most dangerous killer animals in Australia.  The biggest
 GJ> killers were horses

Where were fellow humans on that list? [g]

MMMMM-----Meal-Master - formatted by MMCONV  2.10

     Title: Fried Milk: A Crunchy, Ooze-Filled Delicacy
Categories: Info, Dairy
  Servings: 1 text file

           Fried milk
           chow lai
           gulab jamun
           leche frita
           Latte dolce fritto
           crema fritta

In China, it's called zha xian nai or chow lai; in India, gulab
jamun; in Spain, leche frita and in Italy, latte dolce fritto or
crema fritta, depending on where you are. Translated, they all mean
the same thing: fried milk.

No, this is not a concoction created by molecular gastronomists, but
rather a centuries-old street food with variations throughout the
world and, increasingly, on local menus.

Order chow lai in Guandong in southern China, and you are likely to
get a mixture of shrimp, chicken liver and Chinese ham stir-fried
with custardy milk and egg whites. But in northern China, zha xian
nai is a sweet crispy treat with a milky, pudding-like center,
placed on the side of the savory plate to keep children happy while
adults dine.

The Italians enjoy two versions of fried milk: latte dolce fritto,
sweet fried milk, popular in central and southern Italy, and its
close cousin, crema fritta, or fried cream.

The names may be exotic, but most versions of fried milk are
essentially the same. Milk, or some form of milk, is turned into a
custard with the help of flour, cornstarch and eggs. In some parts
of China, milk is curdled with ginger. The custard or curd is then
breaded and fried. The result is a delicate, crispy snack with an
unexpectedly warm custard- or mousse-like center. Bite into a piece
of fried milk, and you'll first notice the crunch of the breaded
shell, then the contrast of a soft, velvety center that sometimes
oozes into your mouth.

Its appeal is easy to understand, said Pichet Ong, the chef and the
owner of P Ong. Mr. Ong, who is also working on his own version of
ginger fried milk, sums it up neatly: Everyone loves fried food,
and everyone loves milk, so why not fried milk?

At Pamplona restaurant on East 28th Street in Manhattan, the fried
milk is a leche frita inspired by memories of another classic
Spanish dessert. We used to make a traditional leche frita, but it
was too heavy in spices, so I thought what if you cross crema
catalana with leche frita?" said Alex Urena, the executive chef and
owner.

Mr. Urena replaces the warm dark spices found in the traditional
leche frita with bright citrus flavors of crema catalana, and he
binds the milk with gelatin instead of flour. The result is a
lighter version of the popular Spanish street food: warm, runny
citrus cinnamon cream encased in a light panko shell. Akhtar Nawab
is also redefining an age-old version of fried milk, at Elettaria.
His fried milk doughnuts were derived from gulab jamun, a popular
Indian sweet made with dehydrated milk and rosewater syrup. He
serves them with ginger custard and chai ice cream, modernizes the
dessert by swapping a portion of dehydrated milk with whole milk
and cutting the sweetness by decreasing the time the doughnut soaks
in rosewater syrup.

With a savory take, Bar Q serves garlic fried milk as a side dish
for marinated lamb. Paying homage to the snack found in Hong Kong
sweet shops, the chef, Anita Lo, developed her recipe when she was
working at the restaurant Mirezi in the mid 90s.

I was reluctant to bring it back, Ms. Lo wrote in an e-mail. But
people who I've been cooking for from Mirezi days have been asking
for it, and the dish fits with the Asian theme."

Revital Melech, pastry chef at Abboccato in Midtown, echoes the
sentiment. The chocolate crema fritta she serves was originally
created for a Piedmont wine dinner several years ago, and her
customers loved it so much that she kept it on the menu.

Paired with caramelized bananas, wafers and house-made sour cream,
the dessert seems to many customers to be a grown-up version of a
banana split. (Ho me cooks can get the dish closer to its rustic
roots by serving the bananas and sour cream on the side.)

Ms. Melech is experimenting with the pairing, using an herb sorbet.
But no matter how refined its co-star, fried milk will still get top
billing.

By YA-ROO YANG Published: July 9, 2008

  From: Simon Bao                       
 
MMMMM-------------------------------------------------


Cheers

YK Jim


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