Text 24147, 120 rader
Skriven 2009-05-17 22:27:00 av JIM WELLER (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av DALE SHIPP
Ärende: brown cheese
====================
-=> Quoting Dale Shipp to Michael Loo <=-

 RH> But, is fried cheese a bad thing?  (G)
 
 ML> the issue is "is burned cheese a bad thing," to which
 ML> the answer is yes.

 DS> I happen to like the little crispy bits of cheese such as ooze out
 DS> onto the fry pan when making a grilled cheese sandwich.  Not quite to
 DS> the burnt stage, but brown and crisp.

There is a fine line there, and easy to cross.

MMMMM-----Meal-Master - formatted by MMCONV  2.10

     Title: Tony Maws's Burger Tips
Categories: groundmeat, beef, sandwiches, info
  Servings: 1

      1    part short rib
      1    part flap
      1    part brisket
           suet
           bone marrow
           dried miso paste
           old Cheddar
           sesame bun
           watercress
           fried onions
           mace flavoured ketchup

From Tony Maws, chef of Craigie Street Bistro (now Craigie on Main),
Cambridge, MA

Secret Number 1: The Fat

By starting with three very flavorful and lean cuts of beef (he uses
equal parts short rib, flap meat, and brisket), and adding in as
much fat as you want (he goes with a ratio of around 85/15), you can
get all the flavor of grass-fed beef combined with the juicy fat
content of grain-fed beef. Best of both worlds.

"I started off using 100% bone marrow as my fat, it's easily the
richest, beefiest part of the cow. It's like a full-on stampede on
your tongue. It tasted awesome up until the time that it cooled a
little bit and started coagulating in your mouth. Then it was like
eating a beef flavored candle."

In the end, he settled on a 2:1 mixture of suet (fat taken from
around the kidneys of the cow) and marrow, all of which get ground
together with the beef a single time through a coarse die on the
meat grinder.

Secret Number 2: Umami

I'd been toying with grinding anchovies or sprinkling a bit of
monosodium glutamate into my own burger mix for a while.  A-1, etc
are total umami bombs.  What about white soy, or kecap manis? Well,
after months of testing far more rigorous than my own, he came up
with a novel solution: dehydrating miso paste.

Miso paste is already an intense "umami bomb" on its own. spreading
it thin and leaving it overnight in the dehydrator only intensifies
this flavor.. "We were using a bit of A-1 for a while, but
dehydrated miso was the only thing we found that was concentrated
enough in glutamates to give the beef the amount of umami we wanted
without adding its own flavor."

Secret Number 3: Kitchen Toys

here's the part where you might get a little stuck. Chef Maws'
method of choice forgoes the griddle or the grill. Instead, he pops
it inside a steam-injected, pressure and temperature- controlled
C-Vap oven. Often described as being "sous-vide without the bags,"
items placed in the cabinet are cooked slowly under positive
pressure. What does this mean? It means you get a perfectly
medium-rare burger all the way from edge to edge, with barely any
lost moisture.

The one thing it doesn't do: brown the meat. Tony heads over to
another one of his new toys: a steel plancha set into his
state-of-the-art Molteni range. This puppy reaches over 900 degrees,
which is hotter than any grill on the market. All of this translates
into: instant char with no chance of overcooking the interior; The
patty spends no more than 30 seconds on each side.

Secret Number 4: The Toppings

The cheese is a 3-year old cheddar from Vermont.

The bun is slightly giving, with a light dairy sweetness, and a
sprinkle of sesame seeds. 

Next he grabs a handful of watercress and places it on the warm
sizzle platter he'd just pulled the patty from. "Hamburger
vinaigrette," he says, as he swirls the watercress around to sop up
the few juices that managed to escape from the patty. Along with the
dehydrated miso, I now have two things I need to add to my
must-have-on-hand-at-all-times list.

Finally, a handful of crispy fried onions and a smear of house made
mace-scented ketchup complete the "cheffiest" burger (and I mean
that in a good way) I've ever seen. 

Posted by Kenji

From: Goodeater.Org
 
MMMMM-------------------------------------------------

Cheers

YK Jim


... Celebrate May 17: Anniversary of the first Kentucky Derby. Mint Juleps

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