Text 26667, 108 rader
Skriven 2009-07-27 22:37:00 av JIM WELLER (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av DALE SHIPP
Ärende: Chee Burger
===================
-=> Quoting Dale Shipp to Jim Weller <=-

 DS> our normal size hamburger, 4 ounces.

That's certainly respectable, especially on a stand bun. But
anything less is scanty.

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     Title: The Perfect Burger And All Its Parts Part 1
Categories: Sandwiches, Groundmeat, Beef, Info
  Servings: 4

           some tips
           the meat:

At Comme Ca, Mr. David treats burgers like steak and puts a good
hard sear on both sides using his plancha, then transfers it to a
375-degree oven to finish cooking. After it comes out, there's a
built-in resting period while he toasts the buns and makes a
last-minute lettuce salad. Home cooks who don't have a plancha can
sear the meat either on a grill or on the stovetop in a cast-iron
skillet. The final cooking works beautifully in a toaster oven as
well as a regular oven. Or, if you have an outdoor grill that is
large enough you can simply move the burgers to a cooler spot once
they've been charred. He melts Cheddar cheese over the patty and
dollops iceberg lettuce salad dressed with spicy mayonnaise on top
and, voila, a reformed burger.

In "Burger Bar", Hubert Keller writes that what you do not want is
preshaped burgers or meat that is stuffed and compacted into plastic
packaging. Once beef is compressed, a light texture cannot be
regained. 

Douglas Keane, the executive chef and an owner of Cyrus and the
Healdsburg Bar & Grill in Healdsburg, Calif., advises people to lose
their fear of fat. He started with 80 percent lean beef, then moved
to a 70-to-30 ratio. 

Mark Bucher, the executive chef at the Burger Joint in Washington,
said that to make a great burger have your butcher grind a piece of
brisket. "It's got a 25- to 30-percent fat-to-meat ratio," he said.
"It's gorgeous. It's my favorite." Pat LaFrieda, LaFrieda Wholesale
Meat Purveyors also prefers chuck and brisket and said to put them
in the freezer first and chill them to 30 degrees.

Christopher Smith said to choose select, choice or prime grade meat
not dairy cows come of age... they give a very lean, low-grade beef.
That's often what's used for preground meat.

The patty:

"If you do nothing else, you should handle it less," said Suvir
Saran, an owner of Devi, an Indian restaurant in Union Square.

Mr. David of Comme Ca thinks a lightly shaped patty holds together
better if it's refrigerated for an hour or two before cooking.

Jar lids are popular with chefs. Mark Richardson, the executive chef
at the Four Seasons Hotel in San Francisco, swears the lid of a
Hellmann's mayonnaise jar makes the best possible burger mold.

Laurent Tourondel is completely against those chefs who use a
whopping 12 ounces of meat. Tourondel, the executive chef and
partner at the many BLT restaurants. He thinks the patty needs to be
in proportion with the tomato, the bread and whatever else you have.

One small shaping trick will help it cook better. "The first thing
you do is take your thumb and make a well in the burger," said Bobby
Flay. The air and water in burgers make them puff up when they're
cooked. Then people take their spatula and go, smash, squishing out
all the liquid. Dimpling the patty helps it cook evenly, and you
won't be tempted to smack it down and lose all the juice.

All the chefs agree that salt is crucial. You should be pretty
liberal with it. Beef can take more salt than you think. Most chefs
recommended seasoning the burger just before cooking it.

HOW HOT DO YOU GO?

The beauty of a burger is its seared crust, and the only way to get
it is to make sure the grill, skillet or flat top is hot, hot, hot.
"You have to be willing to cook over high heat," said Andy D'Amico,
the chef and a partner at Five Napkin Burger.

Testing for doneness is always a challenge for the home cook. Seamus
Mullen, the chef and an owner of the Boqueria restaurants in the
Flatiron district and SoHo, uses a wire cake tester. (Any thin,
straight piece of metal will work as well.)
"We stick it in the middle through the side," he said. "If it's
barely warm to the lips, it's rare. If it's like bath water, it's
medium rare. It takes the guesswork out of everything."


  From: The New York Times
 
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Cheers

YK Jim


... Love and cooking are one and the same.

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