Text 27855, 133 rader
Skriven 2009-08-24 21:37:00 av JIM WELLER (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av BURTON FORD
Ärende: Oatmeal
===============
-=> Quoting Burton Ford to Several People <=-

 BF> Ummm.... I was talking about a beer [stout] that was brewed with some
 BF> oatmeal in the mash.  Not using stout to make oatmeal taste good.

Right, I'm with you on that.

 BF> Unlike some here, I like oatmeal.

So do I.

 BF> And I'm considering pepper

 BF> horseradish sauce I have had inmy oatmeal.  ]g]

I tend to go for the sweet: fruit, brown sugar, cinnamon, walnuts etc.

MMMMM-----Meal-Master - formatted by MMCONV  2.10

     Title: Brown Butter Ice Cream, Glace Au Beurre Noisette
Categories: Ice cream
  Servings: 4

      1 c  butter
    1.5 c  milk  
    1.5 c  cream 
    1/2 c  sugar 
      6    yolks 
      1 ts salt

I'm a bit ice cream crazy right now. I blame it all on summer, and
on that David Lebovitz.  It's his new book, The Perfect Scoop Ice
cream is not, however, my only infatuation of the moment.  I've also
gone mad about brown butter.  For this I blame Jeffrey Steigarten
and his article in Vogue a month or two ago.

The French name of brown butter, beurre noisette, came from the
wonderful hazelnut aroma that develops after the butter has been
melted and cooked until golden brown.  It adds such an intense aroma
and wonderful flavor to pretty much anything.  Most of the flavor in
brown butter comes from caramelized fat solids, the brown bits
floating in the sea of golden butter.  Though most refined French
recipe calls for straining the brown butter before use, I find that
if the brown butter is cooked correctly, that is to say it's not
overly burnt, it's actually better to leave the brown solids in it. 

My brown butter ice cream recipe is a result of an experiment.  Or
perhaps it would be more accurate to call it a quest: one to see how
much brown butter I can get away with adding into a pretty classic,
basic ice cream base recipe.  I want my brown butter ice cream to
actually taste like brown butter, not just hinting at it.  I also
don't want any other flavoring that would interfere with the pure
flavor of brown butter, so you won't find gratuitous vanilla or
brown sugar or anything of the sort here.  It's just ice cream base
and brown butter.   The amount I ended up with is the ratio of 1:3
butter to other dairy, that is to say, a shit load. (Yes, that is a
technical term.)  

How do I go about blending 8 oz of liquid fat into an ice cream
base?  With a blender.  

Method:

First you make the beurre noisette.  Cut butter into cubes and place
in a medium pot over medium heat.  As the butter cooks it will
bubble up quite a bit so make sure you use a big enough pot to
prevent a boil-over.  Let the butter melt, shake the pan
occasionally so there's no hot spots.  As the big bubbles in the pot
begin to subside, keep a watchful eye over it, as soon as brown
specks appear and the liquid butter is golden brown, remove the pot
from heat and pour the brown butter into another bowl immediately.
Left in the hot pot, the butter will continue to cook and might turn
too dark.  Frankly this sounds more complicated than it really is.
It's really not that hard.  If your brown butter turn just a tad too
brown, just strain it and don't use the brown bits.  If it's
perfectly brown you don't need to strain it, the brown bits are
butter solids which add flavor to the brown butter and, eventually,
your ice cream. 

The you can make your ice cream base.  (I do this mostly in a
blender.  Yes, you read it right, your regular old blender will do
just fine.)  Rinse out the pot you just made brown butter in and
give it a quick wipe, divide the sugar evenly (or evenly-ish)
between the pot and the glass bowl of your blender.  Pour the milk
into the pot over the sugar and place the pot over low heat.  Stir
to blend and leave the pot over the heat to warm up the milk.  Turn
your attention back to the blender, add the yolks, and give it a
whirl (that's to say turn it on) for a few seconds to blend.  Then,
as the blender is running, slowly pour the warm brown butter into
the yolk and sugar mixture and blend until the liquid butter is
fully incorporated into the sugar/yolk mixture.  When this is done,
turn your attention back to the pot, the milk/sugar mixture should
be close to a simmer by now.  As soon as it does, turn the blender
on again and pour the warm milk into it and process until
well-incorporated.  Add the salt, give it another whirl to mix.  

At this point, if you're somewhat germ-phobic, or if you're not
entirely confident of the quality of your eggs, you can pour the
whole mixture back into the pot and bring everything to a simmer (or
160F/70C if you want to be all precise about it.)  If you do this,
make sure you do it over very low heat and keep stirring to prevent
the ice cream base from curdling or being overcooked.

If you were me, you'd skip the previous paragraph entirely.  What I
do next is just pour the cold cream into the custard base in the
blender, give it another whirl to mix.  Then pour the ice cream base
into a bowl, cover and place in the fridge until completely cold
before churning, in your ice cream maker, according to the

manufacturer's instructions. Also, if you were me, you'd also
sprinkle a big pinch of flaky fleur de sel into your ice cream
machine when it's close to done.  I love the surprising crunch when
I come upon one of those flakes as I devour the ice cream.

The ice cream is great on its own, and amazing served a la mode with
a slice of fruit tart or pie.  


  From: Chez Pim                        
 
MMMMM-------------------------------------------------


Cheers

YK Jim


... Things you won't hear from rednecks: Cappuccino is better than espress

___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.20 [NR]
--- Platinum Xpress/Win/WINServer v3.0pr5
 * Origin: Doc's Place BBS Fido Since 1991 docsplace.tzo.com (1:123/140)