Text 32049, 90 rader
Skriven 2009-12-09 03:36:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av JIM WELLER
Ärende: from silliness 493
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 JW> Title: Omurice
 ML> Proof that Japanese is not one of the great cuisines.
 JW> But they do have some great dishes. Tempura, sukiyaki and yakitori
 JW> come to mind. And sushi was a great invention.

Okay, they refine stuff to the nth degree, but interestingly
the racist/culturist stereotype that they can't create holds
here. Tempura - European. Sukiyaki - probably sort of European;
certainly the choice of meat is Portuguese. Yakitori - this is
just grilled chicky with bbq sauce. Raw fish - Chinese. Okay,
the batter they put on tempura can be (but seldom is) nicer
than what goes on a fritto misto, and the presentation thing
with the sushi is nice, but great cuisines? Despite Michelin
giving Tokyo restaurants proportionally more stars than any
other city, the answer is no no no - the general level of the
cooking is more like omurice than mirin-glazed foie gras. By
the way, Michelin started hiring Japanese testers for Japanese
restaurants, and the number of stars has gone way down.

 JW> Title: Toro's Burger
 ML> Proof that Bostonese is.
 JW> All the Boston burgers in the series sounded quite wonderful.

Was the Michael Schlowburger on the list? I think it has
Radius in the name or something like that.
 
=

 JW> Somebody should tell Paula that giblets are edible innards: heart,
 JW> gizzard and liver. A neck is not a giblet, although it does enhance
 JW> a gravy.

The amount of misinformation purveyed by the cooking shows
is impressive. On the other hand, I just rode back from a
concert with a friend who couldn't cook worth a lick until
her husband died and she started watching the Food Network
for consolation; she told me with wonder in her voice that
she finally learned that low and slow was the way to make
scrambled eggs, which she had always made as hockey pucks
before, because the Barefoot Contessa told her so. I said
with some exasperation that she could just have asked me.

Cherry Ice Cream
cat: sweet
makes: 2 qt

3 1/2 c sugar
2 1/2 c stemmed, pitted and quartered cherries
1/3 c good-quality brandy or Cognac
3 c heavy cream
3 c milk
2 vanilla beans, split lengthwise
12 egg yolks

Prepare the cherries and ice cream custard the day before
making the ice cream. To macerate the cherries: In a med
saucepan, combine 2 c of the sugar with 2 c of water.
Bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add the
cherries, and simmer 5 min. Remove from heat, and transfer
cherries and syrup to a bowl. Stir in brandy. Cover and
refrigerate overnight. To prepare the ice cream custard:
In a med saucepan, combine the heavy cream, milk, vanilla
beans, and remaining sugar. Heat until just beginning to
steam, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from heat.
In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks until well
combined. Add a ladleful of the hot milk mixture to the
eggs while whisking vigorously, to warm and temper the
yolks. Add the warmed yolks to the hot milk mixture, and
return the pan to med heat. Stir until the mixture is
thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 min;
immediately pour it through a fine strainer into a clean
container. Remove the vanilla beans from the strainer,
and scrape the pulp from the vanilla beans into the
custard. Cover the container, chill in a bowl of ice water
and refrigerate overnight. To finish the ice cream: Place
a strainer over a bowl and drain the syrup from the
cherries. Set the cherries aside, and discard the syrup or
reserve for another use. Freeze the chilled custard in an
ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Remove the ice cream from the machine while it is still
slightly soft. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the cherries.
Cover ice cream, and place in a freezer for a few hr or
until completely firm.

New York Times 7/8/98


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