Text 5846, 236 rader
Skriven 2008-04-22 15:18:42 av DAVE SACERDOTE (1:123/140)
Ärende: How To Make Bacon
=========================
This is cross-posted from my blog at
http://davescupboard.blogspot.com/2008/04/making-bacon-at-home.html
I encourage you to click through to it; I have lots of gorgeous
bacony photographs there.
==
For the past couple of years, I've been making bacon at home. I
don't do it to save money; by the time I've bought the pork belly,
seasonings, cure ingredients, fuel and chips for the smoker, and
so on, I really haven't saved all that much. No, I do it because
I love the different flavors I can achieve with different cures and
because I like the results better. Commercially-made bacons are
often injected with their cure - pumped up with moisture and extra
sugars that make for a wetter, sloppier product. You've probably
cooked bacon like that. It leaves puddles of salty white water or
sticky residue in your frying pan, but before now you didn't really
know why.
Making bacon at home is a time-consuming process, but not a very
hard one. The steps are simple:
1. Cure the bacon
2. Dry the meat off so the smoke will "take"
3. Smoke the bacon
4. Chill the bacon so it's easier to slice
5. Enjoy!
Starting the Cure
I'll give you three separate recipes - you can choose whichever
one that works best for you, or you can do what I did for this
article and make a batch of all three. You'll notice that all
the recipes include an optional ingredient called Morton
TenderQuick. This product, made by the Morton Salt Company, is salt
combined with a very small amounts of sodium nitrite and sodium
nitrate. If you are concerned about nitrites and nitrates in your
diet, you may leave them out when you make your bacon, but remember
that they not only inhibit the growth of harmful bacterias, but
they preserve the wonderful pink color of the lean parts of the
bacon. In the tiny amounts used in the recipes, I believe them to
be harmless, but you can make your own decisions about this.
First, my "default cure." I make a "hot smoked" bacon which turns
out a ready-to-fry but fully cooked product very similar to
Russian Bacon. Because of this, I have had a lot of success
with a brine cure:
1 gallon water
1 cup of Kosher or pickling salt
1 tsp Morton TenderQuick curing salt (optional)
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
Combine all the ingredients in a container and stir vigorously
until the salts and sugar has dissolved. You can add other
flavoring ingredients to the brine, if you like - bay leaves,
mustard seed, thyme, sliced ginger, sage (pretty much anything
that tastes good with pork and smoke) - to vary the flavor.
Immerse the pork belly into the brine - making sure the pork
is completely submerged - and refrigerate for five to seven
days.
If you prefer a "dry rub" you can get excellent results with this
honey cure. You'll need:
1 lb chunk of pork belly (or larger)
2 ounces honey
2 tablespoons (or more) coarsely ground black pepper
1 cup salt
1 tsp Morton TenderQuick (optional)
Pat the pork belly dry with paper towels, then rub it all over
with the honey to form a thin but uniform coating on all sides.
Next, roll the coated pork in the black pepper until all surfaces
are covered with pepper. Finally, rub the entire surface well
with salt to which the TenderQuick has been added. The pork
belly should be covered with a nice thick layer of salt.
This is what the pork will look like when you have the cure
properly packed around it. The pepper will be showing through
the salt layer, and the honey will be seeping though a bit. If
you have a vacuum sealer, put the bacon along with all the salt
sticking to it (and whatever of the salt/honey/pepper mixture
you can gather up with your hands from the cutting board) into
a vacuum pouch and seal it tight. If you don't have a vacuum
sealer, use a heavy-duty zipper-closing freezer bag. Try to
press out as much of the air as possible from the bag as you
seal it up. Refrigerate while curing for five to seven days.
Another dry-rub cure you can try is this "savory cure" using herbs
for extra flavor:
1 teaspoon Morton TenderQuick
3 tablespoons Kosher salt
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
4 bay leaves, crumbled
1 tablespoon dried thyme
Mix all ingredients well and rub into the pork belly on all surfaces.
Seal in a vacuum pouch or a heavy freezer bag and refrigerate while
curing for five to seven days. This recipe will make enough cure to
do a five-pound slab of bacon, so if you only have a small one-or
two-pound piece, don't feel that you have to use up the whole batch.
Curing Time
For brine-cured bacon, just leave the container with the submerged
pork alone in the refrigerator for about a week. Check every now and
then to be sure the brine is reaching every part of the meat. If you
have more than one piece of pork in the brine, turn them every day
or so to make sure the same parts of the pork aren't pressed up
against each other all the time (the surfaces that are pressed
against each other don't get exposed to the brine as well.)
For dry-rub cured bacon, you will notice after a few hours that
the rub has begun to draw moisture out of the pork and form a
brine all its own in the bag. If you're using a loosely-fitting
sealed zipper bag, you should turn it over twice a day to make
sure all surfaces of the meat stay exposed to the salty brine
evenly. As the days go by, more brine will form.
Brine will still form in a vacuum-sealed bag, but there's less
room for it to move around. Once a day, take the sealed bag out
of the refrigerator and gently massage the surfaces of the meat
through the plastic. This helps ensure that the undissolved salt
and other seasonings stay evenly distributed.
Finishing the Cure
After about a week has passed, the bacon is cured and should be
ready to smoke. Remove the bacon from the cure and rinse it under
cool running water. You'll only need a light rinse with brined
bacon, but if you used a dry salt cure you'll need to lightly
rub the bacon under the water stream to remove all the brine
and undissolved salt and bits of herb, etc. Ground pepper
might still stick to the meat. You can leave that on if you like.
Pat the bacon dry with paper towels and put it on a wire rack,
rind (skin) side down, to dry for a few hours. Smoke doesn't
adhere well to wet meat, so the pork needs to air until the
surface feels kind of dry and even a little sticky. This sticky
surface is called a "pellicle" and is formed when surface
proteins on the meat dry out and harden a little. This extra
step not only gives the bacon a better texture, but also
improves the ability of the smoke to flavor the meat. Don't
skip it.
Smoking
You may not have the same type or model smoker as I do, but you
should be familiar enough with your own equipment that I don't
have to tell you how to perform this step. Just remember to
keep the bacon spaced out enough so that the smoke can flow
freely around the meat and expose the entire surface to the smoke.
From top to bottom in my smoker:
Racks holding the bacon, placed rind (skin) side up
A pan of water. This provides humidity in the smoker and also
catches and cools any fat that might drip from the bacon as
it smokes. Just allowing the fat to fall into the coals will
not only cause hot flares, but the burning fat will leave an
unpleasant flavor and color in the bacon.
Under the water pan is a shallow tray filled with lava rocks. It
is made of stainless steel and perforated with big half-inch-
diameter holes to let the flames from the burner through. It
sits on a heavy steel rack holding it above the burner. When
the lava rocks heat up, wood chips soaked in water are scattered
upon them and smolder slowly, releasing their flavor.
Below the lava rocks, of course, is a bronze burner to provide
heat.
I usually light the smoker about a half an hour before I'm ready
to put in the meat. This gives the water and the lava rocks time
to heat up. That way, I can load the meat in, throw on a handful
of chips to start the smoke, and close the door.
Once the bacon is in the smoker and the smoke has started, keep
the temperature inside the smoker at about 225 to 270 degrees F.
The idea is to slowly cook the bacon without rendering out very
much of the fat (a small amount will "sweat out" during the
smoking process, but you will be surprised at how little it is!)
Keep an eye on the vents and when the smoke slows down, add more
chips to keep a constant flow of smoke. You'll want to keep a
small bucket of water handy with a handful or two of chips
soaking so they are wet and ready when they need to be added
to the lava rocks.
Smoke the bacon for about three hours. You'll know it's done when
the skin has softened and pulled back from the edges of the meat
and the bacon feels firm when pressed. The color should be a rich
deep golden brown.
Remove the bacon from the smoker and place on a wire rack over
some absorbent paper to cool. When the bacon is at room temperature,
wrap it tightly in butcher's paper, plastic, or aluminum foil and
refrigerate until completely chilled. This will "set" the juices
in the lean parts of the bacon and firm up the fat, making the
bacon much easier to slice for frying.
Remember also that after smoking, the bacon is fully cooked.
That means you can enjoy it like Russian bacon, thinly sliced
cold without additional cooking. As Michael said: "Uncooked hot-
smoked bacon is one of the great decadences." I agree.
This moment is what makes it all worthwhile: Beautifully cured,
perfectly smoked bacon, sliced and ready to fry or to just eat
with some good black rye bread and sliced onion.
And don't forget about those rib bones that were on the belly as it
cured. Just before slicing the bacon, run a sharp knife under the
bones and remove them from the bacon slab. Briefly fry, broil, or
barbecue them and serve them just the way they are. Delicious,
bacon-flavored spare ribs! Don't think of them as a by-product,
think of them as an extra-special bonus treat.
---
http://davescupboard.blogspot.com/ - Dave's Cupboard - Food and
Restaurant Reviews; If I post it here in NCE, you'll find it
blogged with photos at Dave's Cupboard.
http://bacon-labels.blogspot.com/ - A gallery of bacon package labels.
(The extra shelf in Dave's Cupboard.
* Origin: Doc's Place BBS Fido Since 1991 docsplace.tzo.com (1:123/140)
|