Text 6388, 183 rader
Skriven 2008-05-02 07:56:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
Kommentar till en text av HAP NEWSOM
Ärende: things 243
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HN> It USED to be that most beef was flavorful and grass
HN> fed...then came the "Corn Fed Beef" (did you know
I like both kinds; grass fed and corn finished was popular
for a while and was considered the best of both worlds -
wonder what became of that.
HN> that corn makes cows sick?) craze and steaks
HN> and steakhouses haven't really been the same since.
Cow stomachs aren't built for corn kernels, but I think
they've adapted pretty well (though they fart a lot more,
I understand, when fed the starchy diet: but then so do we).
HN> Now if you really want a good chunk of meat you're
HN> going to go to a place that charges you a
HN> nominal egg for a chunk o meat with no sides!
Yep - $5 for spinach, $5 for a potato, $5 for onion
rings, and pretty soon you're talking real money.
HN> Used to be you could have 5 or 6 choices under
HN> the "steaks" section of a good menu...now it's
HN> Petit filet (4-6oz) or "man size, or King's cut (8oz)
Since when is a King's cut of beef just a cup?
HN> and maybe a sirloin or new york strip...but seldom
HN> both. I can't remember the last time I saw
HN> porterhouse or T bone on a menu!
I guess dealing with cooking a steak with a bone in it
is too taxing for the kind of help they're getting these
days. I've actually seen porterhouses on menus, but the
cost is prohibitive: when a strip is 1.25/oz, a porterhouse
runs about 2./oz, and that's counting the bone.
Roasted rib steak
cat: main, beef, see below for original title, celebrity
servings: 2 to 3
h - Cote de Boeuf
1 double-cut rib steak (about 2 to 2 1/2 lb)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Canola oil
4 Tb (2 oz) unsalted butter
h - Bordelaise Sauce
1 c red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon
1/3 c sliced shallots
1/2 c sliced carrots
1/4 c sliced mushrooms
10 sprigs Italian parsley
2 sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
2 Tb sliced garlic
6 black peppercorns
1 c veal stock
h - Pommes Anna
10 pitted prunes
1 c chicken stock
1 Tb minced shallots
Gray salt
2 lb Yukon Gold potatoes
6 Tb clarified butter, melted
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
h - Chanterelle Mushrooms
1 Tb unsalted butter
1 generous c (3 oz) chanterelle mushrooms,
- washed, stems peeled, and cut into 1" pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Thyme sprigs
Roasted Rib Steak with Golden Chanterelles, Pommes Anna,
and Bordelaise Sauce
Ask the butcher for a double-cut rib steak, or cote de
boeuf.Request that it be trimmed of excess fat, that
the bone be "frenched", or scraped clean, and that the
meat be tied with string to help it hold its shape
during cooking.
I season this meat - as I do any large cut of meat to be
served rare to medium-rare - a day before cooking so that
the salt has time to penetrate into the flesh and intensify
the flavor. Sprinkle all sides of the steak liberally with
salt and pepper. Place on a plate and refrigerate for 1 day
to allow the flavors to develop. One hr before cooking,
remove the meat from the refrigerator. (It is important
that beef or lamb be brought to room temperature before
cooking. If the meat is cold, the cooking time will be
increased and the outside will be overcooked by the time
the inside reaches its proper temperature.)
For the Bordelaise Sauce: In a medium saucepan, bring the
wine, vegetables, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, and garlic to
a simmer, and simmer until almost all of the liquid has
evaporated. Add the peppercorns and veal stock and simmer
for another 10 to 15 min, or until the stock is reduced to
a sauce consistency (about 1/2 c). Strain the sauce
through a fine mesh strainer into a small saucepan. This
sauce can be refrigerated for 2 to 3 days.
For the Pommes Anna: Place the prunes and chicken stock
in a small saucepan. The prunes should be just covered
with liquid. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 20 min,
or until the liquid has evaporated and the prunes are
very soft. Remove the prunes to a cutting board and finely
chop them. Add the shallots and gray salt to taste.
Preheat the oven to 450F.
Peel the potatoes and trim into cylinders that are 1 1/2
to 2" in diameter. Using a mandoline, cut the potatoes
into 1/16" slices. Place the slices in a bowl of cold
water for a minute to remove some of the starch, then
drain and dry the slices on paper towels.
Put 2 Tb of the clarified butter in an 8" ovenproof
nonstick skillet. Place a slice of potato in the center
of the pan. Lay more potato slices around the edge of the
pan, overlapping them by half, until you have completely
circled the pan. Continue with another overlapping circle
of potatoes inside the first. When the entire bottom of
the pan is covered, sprinkle a little Kosher salt and
pepper over the potatoes and repeat the process to form a
second layer. Spread half of the prune mixture over the
potatoes, leaving a 1/2" border all around. Work carefully
to avoid moving the potatoes around too much. Make another
two layers of potatoes, seasoning the first layer with
salt and pepper, and spread the remaining prune mixture
over them, again leaving a border. Cover the prunes with a
final two layers of seasoned potatoes. Pour the remaining
1/4 c clarified butter over the potatoes and place the
skillet over medium-low heat. Once the butter begins to
bubble, cook for 3 to 4 min, shaking the pan occasionally
to be sure that the potatoes are not sticking. Use a spoon
to gently shape the top and sides of the potato cake,
keeping the prune filling from leaking out. Transfer
the pan to the oven and bake for about 30 min, or until
the potatoes are well browned and crisp. Invert the potato
cake onto a board or serving platter. The potato cake can
be made a few hr ahead and set aside at room temperature
in the skillet. Reheat in a 450F oven for about 10 min, or
until sizzling hot.
For the steak: While the potatoes are cooking, pat the meat
dry (it won't sear well if it is wet) and wrap the bone in
aluminum foil to prevent it from burning.
Heat 1/8" canola oil in a heavy ovenproof pan over high
heat. Add the steak and sear it for 4 to 5 min, or until
it is dark brown and crusty on the bottom. Flip the steak
and brown the second side for 2 to 3 min. Pour off most of
the oil and add the butter to the pan. Place the pan in
the oven and roast for about 5 min. Baste the meat with
the butter and pan juice, turn the steak over, and sprinkle
with salt. Continue to cook, basting every 5 min, for a
total of about 20 to 25 min. or until a meat thermometer
reads 115F for rare meat. Another way to determine if the
meat is cooked is to pierce the meat in the center with a
cold knife or metal skewer and leave it there for 45 sec.
Hold the tip to your lip; if it is warm, the meat is done.
Remove from the oven; let the meat rest in the pan 10 min.
Meanwhile, for the chanterelle mushrooms: Heat the butter
in a skillet over medium heat. Add the mushrooms, season
with salt and pepper, and cook for 5 min or until the
mushrooms are tender and slightly "toasty" around the
edges and any liquid has evaporated.
To complete: Rewarm the sauce over low heat. Remove the
string from the steak. Slice the meat against the grain
into 1/4" slices. Overlap the slices on the serving plates
and place a wedge of the Potatoes Anna alongside. (There
will be enough potatoes for seconds.) Arrange the mushrooms
over the steak and spoon some sauce over the top.
Garnish with thyme sprigs.
Makes 2 to 3 generous servings.
Source: Thomas Keller
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