Text 10077, 102 rader
Skriven 2011-04-28 23:28:00 av JIM WELLER (1:123/140)
Ärende: Back finally
====================
We had a major power surge here last Wednesday, followed by a
brownout, a blackout and two false starts in quick succession and my
computer got fried. It took until yesterday to get a new power
supply installed as my computer shop had dozens of people with the
same problem.

But life has returned to normal.

MMMMM-----Meal-Master - formatted by MMCONV  2.10

     Title: Ribs Without Smoke
Categories: Pork, Ribs, Info
  Servings: 1 text file

           pork spare ribs

The problem with boiling before grilling is that it's a flavor
removing, not flavor-enhancing, cooking method. (When you make
stock, you boil bones with the express purpose of transferring the
flavor from the meat to the water.) By contrast, braising in the
oven adds flavor, because you're cooking the ribs in a small
quantity of flavorful liquid in a sealed environment.

Some ideas:

Sweet-sour balsamic-glazed St. Louis-cut spare ribs at Animal in Los
Angeles by chefs, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo: seasoning the ribs
with herbs and grapeseed oil, wrapping them in foil and roasting
them low and slow in the oven.

For sauce: an acidic slather designed to play the sharpness of
balsamic vinegar, grainy mustard and Tabasco sauce against the sugar
rush of honey, brown sugar and ketchup. The chefs sizzle the sauce
into the meat under the broiler, which gives the ribs a spicy
charred crust.

Michael Mina has made bourbon-braised Kurobuta pork short ribs a
signature dish at the restaurant in San Francisco that bears his
name. "We brine the ribs in cider vinegar and carrot juice, then
cook them sous vide at 160 degrees for a day and a half." The final
step is to braise the ribs with a bourbon peppercorn mixture in a
copper pot in the oven. "The low slow heat keeps the alternating
layers of fat and meat visible and intact," he said. "The ribs
become really tender, but still firm enough to eat with a knife and
fork."

Tim Cushman, the chef and an owner of the sophisticated Japanese
restaurant O Ya in Boston, uses a 48-hour process to cook his
tea-brined baby back ribs. The meat is marinated in yuzu juice,
light and dark brown sugar and black tea before it is braised for
three to four hours in an enameled cast iron pot on the stove. 

Ginger-mirin-sake-soy sauce braising liquid imbues the ribs with
rich umami flavors analogous to the taste wood smoke imparts to
traditional barbecue.

Braised ribs from Extra Virgin in Kansas City, Mo., Michael Smith,
chef and an owner. He sears baby backs on the restaurant's
wood-burning grill for a few minutes to lay on a light smoke flavor
before gently braising them in the oven for three to four hours in a
Peruvian-inspired glaze made with guava marmalade, citrus juice,
coffee beans and fiery aji amarillo chilies. Sweet and sticky.

Milk and honey spare ribs at the Osteria dei Cacciatori in Albaretto
della Torre, a hamlet perched among steep Barolo vineyards in the
Piedmont region. Owner Cesare Giaccone and son Filippo. Marinate the
previous night with rosemary, sage and garlic, they were roasted
with acacia honey, porcini mushrooms and milk, an ingredient that
was unprecedented in my experience of rib dishes.

The cooking starts around 180 degrees, he said, and as the milk
evaporates, the temperature rises, browning the meat, lactose and
milk proteins. It is also adding color, flavor and sweetness. It's a
little like making sweetened condensed milk.

Food Chemist Dr. Myhrvold's preferred method of cooking ribs: a
four-step process that involves smoking the ribs for four hours,
then cooking them sous vide, in a sealed plastic pouch, at 140
degrees for 48 hours, followed by a bath in liquid nitrogen for 45
seconds to flash chill them. The final step is a plunge into a deep
fat fryer to crisp the exterior.

By STEVEN RAICHLEN  

  From: The New York Times              
 
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Cheers

YK Jim


... "Good frozen pizza" is a contradiction in terms

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