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Text 14327, 66 rader
Skriven 2011-08-04 10:37:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
Ärende: june trip 702
=====================
Next day, it being too hot to sleep, we met in the dismal
but cool breakfast room; then we wandered around a bit and
then took the tram to the bus station. I'd been looking for
a pub called Vana Willemi - though on a major road, it's
nonetheless slightly obscure, occupying a plain old somewhat
dilapidated building with a door that looks nailed shut. It
opens at 11, though you'd not know by its looks. The place
itself is fairly dark (and cool); but there's a courtyard
out back, and Lilli went and investigated - even at that
hour it had a couple dozen happy-looking patrons who had
apparently entered via a side entrance. We camped out at a
table that was in the breeze and away from the smokers. I
ordered fried pelmeni and a plate of pork tongue; Lilli went
with just a basket of garlic bread. The pelmeni looked just
like Jeno's pizza rolls and didn't taste much better; the
pig part was, however, quite palatable. Garlic bread was
somewhat peculiar - very sweet black bread, such as you
might make kvas out of, soaked in warm garlic oil, and
served with a peculiar dipping sauce. As it tasted mainly
of garlic and fat, I liked it and ate perhaps more than
Lilli did. Not to mention it also went well with pig tongue.

They offered Pilsner Urquell at the same price as Saku. Of
course they were out so offered Saku as consolation. This
was all right with me. Reminded me of the late lamented
Wursthaus in Cambridge, Mass., which had a beer menu that in
my day had half of the selections crossed out; in later
years they printed the run with the names prestricken and a
note saying something like "permanently out of stock."

LUX TLL RIX 1245 1700 seats 30,31

The bus station is 500m from the pub. A moment of panic when
I realized that the bus ticket read 2011-06-09 ... turns out
as a courtesy to us outlanders, the first page said that and
the second page had the real date of 2011.09.06. Jut trying
to help, I suppose.

The business class cabin on the LuxExpress is in the rear,
offering lots of space, a desk, a half liter of water, and
a Nestle energy bar, all for a premium of about 25%. It's
quite comfortable. Across the way was a cute Chinese girl on
holiday; we had a bit of a chat, but mostly, as I do on
public conveyances, I snoozed, and next thing I knew, Riga. 

We were dropped off at the bus equivalent of a remote stand
- I understand the terminal itself is nicer than what we
saw, but we were eager to get to the hotel that Lilli had
cleverly picked out for us, perhaps 6 or 8 blocks away, also
at the edge of old town. Centra is at the end of Audeju St.,
across from Steiku Haoss the steak house and near an
apparently noisy (if you read the online reviews) Irish-
style bar called Paddy Whelan's, which, though I enjoy Irish
pubs, Irish beer, and irony, we did not visit.

Modern, sterile lobby; a friendly desk clerk made up for this.

Modern very high-ceilinged rooms, quite decent size, with a
fashionable bathroom. I didn't hear a peep out of the Irish
from my room.

Another walking old town. We walked.

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