Text 18884, 147 rader
Skriven 2011-12-10 12:45:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av DAVE SACERDOTE
Ärende: sous vide 341
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 -=> Dave Sacerdote said to All <=-
 DS> Convince me that sous-vide cooking isn't a silly fad.

I have limited experience with the food and none with the
cooking, but here's my take.

Fad: the rage will die down, but the discipline will have
taken a lot from it. People draw a comparison with boil-in-bag,
but the main lesson to learn from the technique is that you
can cook at a way lower temperature than 212F.

Silly: the machines are ridiculously expensive.
Alternate: Approximate the effect any number of ways.
I've long been an advocate of slow roasting. Either the
sear-and-forget or the set-and-forget method gives a
wonderful result. The first involves putting your meat
in a 550 oven and turning the gas off immediately - gives
a dark crust and rosy pink meat, whether lamb, beef, or
pork. The second, you put it in at 130F or whatever and
cook for as long as you would like, minimum of like 4
hours. Both of these dry out the meat a bit, which I
believe to be a legitimate purpose of cooking. Or else
you can do the slow covered simmer using a flame tamer
- the flavor is perhaps not as intense, but if you need
all the flavor intensity you can get, either get new food
or a new set of taste buds.

Silly: you can get sick from sous vided food - low sous
vide temperature is good for anaerobic bacteria.
Solution: presear or presalt or alcoholize. Or use clean
food to start with. But I'm waiting to hear about the
first yuppie fatality from sous vide botulinism.

Silly: oh, my steak is perfectly pink from ear to ear.
Solution: don't eat it. More seriously, post-sear it
in a hot pan. Most seriously, don't cook it this way -
steaks are better with gradations of texture.

Thanksgiving turkey Thomas Keller
cat: main, see below for original title
Servings: 8

18 lb (to 20 lb) free-range turkey
- preferably from Four Corners Farm
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
4 oz foie gras
3 Tb butter
1/4 head shredded Savoy cabbage
1/2 c brioche bread 1/2" diced
4 Tb foie gras fat - (available at D'Artagnan
-  butter can be substituted)
10 peeled roasted chestnuts, diced
1 egg
1 Tb chopped chives
2 Tb reduced chicken stock
Bell's Seasoning, to taste
Caul, to wrap leg (or butcher string)
3 Tb canola oil
5 sprigs thyme
5 sprigs sage
2 cloves garlic
1 sprig rosemary

Breast of Four Corners Farm's Turkey Cuit Sous Vide
and Roasted Leg en Ballotine

Remove turkey breast and legs from the carcass and bone
the legs, leaving the skin intact. Reserve the bones for
stock. Place the meat from the legs flat onto a sheet of
plastic wrap, cut the oyster from the edge of the meat
and place in the hole in the center, remove any veins,
and cover with another sheet of plastic wrap. Beat with
a mallet to even out the meat. Trim the meat into a
rectangle, reserving trimmings for stock, and season
with salt and pepper. Preheat the oven to 375F. Set the
foie gras in a small ovenproof skillet and roast for
8 to 10 min. Remove and let cool. Set in the freezer to
harden, then cut into a 1/4" dice. Reserve the foie gras
fat in the pan for the croutons. Heat 1 Tb butter in an
ovenproof skillet until the butter starts to brown, add
the cabbage, and toss to coat. Roast in the oven for
about 10 min or until the cabbage starts to caramelize
around the edges. Toss the diced brioche with 1 Tb of
foie gras fat, set the brioche on a baking sheet, and
toast in the oven for about 5 min or until crisp and
lightly golden.

Combine the diced foie gras, cabbage, croutons, chestnuts,
egg, and chives in a bowl. Stir in 2 Tb of foie gras fat
and the stock. Season with salt, pepper, and Bell's
Seasoning. Place half the stuffing down the center of each
portion of leg meat, roll the meat tightly, and wrap in
caul or tie with butcher string at 1" intervals. Season
each leg with salt and pepper, and brush with foie gras
fat. Increase the oven to 400F. Heat 1 Tb oil in an
ovenproof skillet, add the stuffed turkey legs, and
quickly brown on all sides before setting in the oven
and roasting for 25 min. Allow to rest for 5 min.

Meanwhile, take one half of the turkey breast, season with
salt and pepper, lay it skin-side down, and brush the
flesh side with foie gras fat. Alternate with 2 sprigs
sage and 2 sprigs thyme across the breast, and nestle a
clove of garlic in the center. Cut a sheet of cardboard
the length and width of the breast, cover with foil, and
set the breast bone-side down on the board (this will keep
the bones from piercing the plastic bag). Place the whole
thing in a heavy plastic bag and seal in a vacuum-seal
machine. Repeat with the remaining half breast. If you do
not have a vacuum-seal machine, the breast must be boned
and prepared as above, and then rolled skin-side out. Lay
out a 24"-wide square of plastic wrap. Set the breast at
one end and roll the plastic wrap as tightly as possible
around the breast. Twist the ends to tighten the package
and tie a knot at each end of the plastic wrap, as close
to the meat as possible, so the package is airtight.

Fill a large casserole or deep roasting pan with water and
heat the water to 164F. Place the two vacuum-sealed turkey
breasts in the water and cook gently for 30 min.

Make sure to maintain the water temperature at 164F by
keeping a thermometer in the water. If the water gets too
hot, add more cold water; if it goes below 164F, increase
the heat. Remove the vacuum-sealed breasts from the water
and allow to rest for 5 min.

Remove the breasts from the bags, discard the herbs, and
dry the skin with a paper towel. Season the breasts with
salt and pepper. Heat 2 Tb oil in a large saute pan over
medium-high heat, add the breasts, and gently brown the
skin and finish any cooking if necessary. Add a sprig
each of thyme, sage, and rosemary to the pan along with
2 Tb butter. Brown the butter and baste the breasts,
turning occasionally. Leave the turkey to rest for 5 min
before slicing.

To Drink: Weinbach 2002 Gewurztraminer Cuvee Theo; Alsace,
France ($40). This dry Alsatian Gewurztraminer has a medium
to full body but finishes dry and spicy. It works with the
diverse flavors of the turkey and accompaniments.

Source: Thomas Keller

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