Text 19014, 77 rader
Skriven 2011-12-14 11:44:56 av DAVE SACERDOTE (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av DALE SHIPP
Ärende: Re: Short Ribs
======================
DSh> The beef that I had at the Double-T diner had no bone, and was 
DSh> quite lean. 

"Boneless short ribs" aren't short ribs at all. They're cut from the
chuck, and although they may be cut from the part of the chuck plate
close to the ribs, they are leaner than true ribs. Marketers and 
restaurateurs, however, know that if they put "braised chuck" on the
menu, they're not going to sell as much because chuck is generally
considered to be a less-desirable cut by consumers.

DSh> The short ribs that I see in the stores here seem to be 30% or
DSh> more bone and 20% or more fat.  

And that is exactly what a short rib should be like: a wide bone with
fat and lean layered upon it, with a layer of fat on the top (how
much fat depends on the grade of the beef and how aggressively the
butcher decides to trim it off.)

Short ribs, with all their fatty glory, are prized for the same reason
that pork belly is prized. Long slow cooking breaks down the 
connective tissue and renders the fat into deliciously unctuous and
creamy layers with the meat.  Many people leave behind most of the
fat when they eat short ribs, but it's presence during cooking does
magical things to the lean parts even if it isn't enjoyed for its
own sake.  This is hard to describe to someone who strongly favors
lean meat, but is instantly understood by diners who savor an
occasional decadent, fatty indulgence (hi, Michael!)

DSh> I'm also considering
DSh> what the stores call ox-tail, but that is usually priced 
DSh> high also.  It does have a decent marrow bone, and fairly 
DSh> lean meat with only 10% fat or so.

This makes me wonder what the stores near you are marketing as
oxtail. Oxtails are truly the tail of the cattle, and although
many markets cut them with a bandsaw into slices of uniform
thickness, that is not how they should be sold.

Ideally, oxtail should be sold jointed into natural segments, 
each piece being capped at both ends with cartilage and consisting
of a distinct bone enshrouded with meat and fat with silverside
wrapping the sides. See this illustration:

http://i-cdn.apartmenttherapy.com/uimages/kitchen/2008_12_02-Oxtail.jpg

(Of course, if you are lucky enough to find a whole oxtail, it is 
easy enough to joint yourself; just feel along the tail with your
fingertips until you come upon a knuckle, and cut between the bones.)

With long, slow cooking, the silverside and connective tissue between
the muscles renders into soft and creamy envelopes, each containing
a wonderful, meltingly tender nugget of meat. But the true treat is
the cartilage caps, which turn translucent, smooth and creamy under
the ministrations of the simmering heat.

As you can see from the picture, there is no "decent marrow bone"
in a properly-jointed oxtail - and oxtail bones are narrow to 
begin with anyway, with the widest segment having a bone perhaps 
a little wider than your thumb.

Oxtails are, unfortunately, now priced pretty dearly.  When Maryanne
and I were first married, they were as cheap a cut of beef as one
could buy, so braised oxtails and oxtail soup were part of our
regular menu rotation. But that was back in the days before inexpensive
and offalish cuts of meat were "discovered" by cable TV celebrity
chefs. I don't think I've had oxtails in ten years, thanks to Bam Boy, 
the Ponytailed Pig, and other culinary d-bags driving the prices up.

reluctance to pay more than $5-plus a pound for them 

---
http://davescupboard.blogspot.com/ - Dave's Cupboard Blog
http://on.fb.me/kZMy8b - Dave's Cupboard on Facebook
http://bacon-labels.blogspot.com/ - The Bacon Label Gallery
http://twitter.com/davescupboard/ - Follow me on Twitter
http://the6t.blogspot.com/ - Restoring and Enjoying a 1960 F100
 * Origin: Since 1991 And Were Still Here! DOCSPLACE.TZO.COM (1:123/140)