Text 26043, 141 rader
Skriven 2015-04-16 00:26:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av JIM WELLER
Ärende: Japanese salmon 520
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 ML> And after the first week, one starts to gnaw on one's
 ML> neighbor's arm. Fun to think about.
 JW> Choose plump pre-adolescents for the tenderest cuts.

Depending on availability.

 JW> Title: Caramelized Salmon with Soba Noodles in a Kakejiro Broth
 ML> Interesting, but why cook the salmon more than once?
 ML> I (and the Japanese) like salmon when it's still jiggly.
 JW> Perhaps the Japanese sometimes like well done salmon or maybe it's
 JW> an Emeril thing. I don't know.

I've not had salmon in Japan except raw or rare, but of
course I haven't eaten extensively there or in all parts
of the country. 

 ML> Funny thing - I've had so much airline salmon that I've
 ML> avoided it on terra firma for a few years now.
 JW> Fish is just too delicate to cook, hold and then re-heat.

Ideally it would be loaded frozen raw, and the warming oven
would provide the only cooking. That's too much to expect
even in business class. Singapore Airlines used to offer a
service in first where one would preorder a meal, and the
ingredients would be loaded on board, and a cook would
actually prepare the food from scratch. I think that went
the way of all flesh; now one can just preorder the meal,
which is then loaded, presumably frozen, but the advantage
is that you have 40 choices.

 JW> I tend to stick to char or local lake trout if I have a craving for
 JW> pink fleshed fish and cook it at home so I have no one to blame but
 JW> myself if it's overcooked and dried out.

I had a slice of Scottish sea trout the other day: pink
and oily, like Atlantic salmon only more so. Rosemary
cooked it just so (i.e., just over for me, just under for
her), and it was quite delicious.

 JW> I still chuckle over the showdown between Aura and Renata Bullock of
 JW> Bullock's Bistro ...

A case where the immovable object withstood the irresistible
force.

 JW> Title: Broiled Salmon Skins for Sushi

As some here may know, I have been known to pan-fry salmon
skin, making a crackling-like fishy substance. It's pretty
good and I figure easier to control the brownness of than
under the broiler.

Sea trout with beurre rouge and lovage fritters
categories: fish, main
servings: 6

6 thick (180-200 g, 6-7 oz) sea trout fillets
- skin on, pinbones removed
plain flour, for dredging
50 g (2oz) unsalted butter
1 Tb sunflower oil
For the lovage fritters
250 g (9 oz) plain flour
100 ml (3 1/2 fl) beer
1 pn salt
15 to 20 sprigs of lovage
- 3 or 4 leaves on each
sunflower oil for deep-frying
For the beurre rouge
3 shallots
1 md raw beetroot
1/2 ts sea salt
1 ts whole black peppercorns
250 ml (9 fl) red wine
2 Tb double cream
200 g (7 oz) cold unsalted butter

First prepare the fritter batter: whisk the flour
in a bowl with the beer to make a smooth paste
that will coat the back of a spoon (adjust
ingredients if necessary). Add a pinch of salt
and leave to stand for 30 min.

To make the beurre rouge, finely slice the
shallots and place in a small saucepan. Chop the
beetroot (it does not need peeling) into small
dice and add to the pan, together with the salt,
peppercorns and wine. Bring to the boil and
simmer for 20 min until it reduces to a couple
of tablespoons of syrupy liquid. Add the cream
and reduce again until the sauce has thickened.
Cut the cold butter into small cubes. Heat the
red-wine mixture over a medium flame and whisk
in the butter cubes one at a time, waiting for
each piece to emulsify with the wine before
proceeding. Once you have a good emulsion, you
can speed up the process. Continue whisking until
you have a velvety sauce, then strain it through
a sieve into a saucepan. Keep in a warm place. Do
not put it back on to a direct heat.

Heat a deep-fryer or large saucepan one-third
full of sunflower oil. Whisk the prepared batter
lightly. Dip each sprig of lovage into the batter
and then drop into the heated oil. The fritters
should rise to the surface immediately and they
will need turning after 1 min or so. Drain on
kitchen paper and sprinkle with a little salt.
Make the fritters in batches of two or three,
keeping the cooked fritters warm in an oven on
a low heat.

Rub the skin of the fillets with salt and pepper
and lightly season the flesh sides. Dredge each
fillet in flour, shaking off any excess. Heat
the butter and oil in a large frying pan and drop
in the trout fillets, skin side down. Make sure
each one is moving freely (a nonstick pan will
help) before adding the next. Let them fry gently
for a good 5 min. Turn them over when you can see
that the heat has penetrated at least halfway
through the fillet. Cook on the meat side for
1 min: the idea is to leave the interior of the
fish slightly pink. Remove the fish from the pan,
dry briefly on kitchen paper and place in the
centre of warmed plates. Surround with the sauce
and place the fritters on top.

Wine

With the marinated trout I favour a zingy New W
orld sauvignon blanc with plenty of acidity and
exotic fruit flavours. With the beurre rouge and
fritters it seems logical to go for red. A Loire
pinot noir such as sancerre is perfect with trout,
served cold but not chilled.

Rowley Leigh, telegraph.co.uk
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