Text 29979, 102 rader
Skriven 2015-08-14 22:25:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av DAVE DRUM
Ärende: dubious food 87
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 DD> Haven't essayed bear. The (very) few times I have had possum I found
 DD> it greasy to the point of having a horrid mouth feel. And stringy.

The only time I had bear with a distinctive taste, it was
in pelmenyi, minced plain meat with onions in a plain
dough wrapper - the taste was distinctive, and I didn't
like it. Other times it was mystery meat in gravy and
could easily have been something else. I suppose that if
I were in charge of a starving tribe of savages, and we
ran into one of these, I'd have been thankful, but in
this lifetime, no.

 DD> Over the hill pork (and its sub-set ham) have a sort of metallic twang
 DD> to me. I've never detected a fishiness. It also feels sticky-greasy
 DD> when on picks it up from the ice box.

The weird surface feel I can attest to, but I also detect a
stale fishy-cheesy-nitrogenous flavor.

 DD> Speaking of things that taste fishy:
 DD> Title: Turtle Soup #1

From the turtle soup that Campbell's used to turn out to
that in fancy restaurants, I've found no more than a vague
gaminess, only faintly fishy. Nothing to pay a premium for.

PARTRIDGE PIE WITH A SAUCE OF TRUFFLES
categories: game, main, pastry, luxe
servings: 4

4 wild partridges
salt and pepper
1 savoy cabbage
25 gz truffle
a little truffle oil
50 g semi-cooked foie gras (tinned)
225 g puff pastry
water or a little beaten egg for egg wash
h - For the sauce Perigueux
300 ml light veal stock
25 ml Madeira
a few chopped truffles
300 ml stock made from partridge bones added to veal stock

Using only wild partridges, season them and roast 7 min
a la goutte de sang (undercooked so that when the breast
is punctured with a needle a pearl of blood appears)
in the oven at 220C/425F/Gas 7.

Allow the partridges to cool and then divide them into
supremes, keeping the breast and thigh intact but
removing the drumstick (The drumsticks can be used as
a cold hors d'oeuvre). All the bones will go to make
the partridge stock.

Blanch four good cabbage leaves large enough to form
envelopes in boiling salted water. Refresh.

Cook the heart of the cabbage 5 min in boiling water.
Drain and chop into small pieces, enough to stuff the
four leaves.

Flavour this filling with a little truffle oil and
some of the truffle cut into julienne. Adjust the
seasoning.

Wrap the filling in the cabbage leaves so that you
form small filled envelopes.

Cut the supremes diagonally in half. Place two
supremes for each person side by side to make a
heart shape.

Place the envelopes of cabbage and julienne strips
of truffle in the middle.

Roll out the puff pastry into four squares large
enough to encase the partridge. Place a layer of
semi-cooked foie gras, cut very thinly, on the
pastry, reserving another layer for the top. Add a
few julienne strips of truffle and place the
partridge and cabbage on top. Cover with a second
layer of foie gras and truffle. Season.

Mould the pastry around the filling. Brush the
pastry with water or light egg wash to ensure it
sticks together. Allow to rest in the refrigerator
for a few hours before cooking.

Cook in the oven at 200C/400F/Gas 6 for 8 to 10 min
and then at 180C/350F/Gas 4 for another 8 to 10 min.

To make the Sauce Perigueux, reduce the veal stock
and partridge stock by one-third with the Madeira
and truffles.

Michael Bateman, The most wonderful food in the world
The Independent, 11/26/1995

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