Text 3966, 119 rader
Skriven 2013-08-27 10:18:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av DALE SHIPP
Ärende: fruit, temperate 65
===========================
 DS> Actually, I think that the various types of apples have a lot of
 DS> variation in their flavor -- and I like some of them better than any
 DS> grape I have had.

Maybe used to. I recall we had a discussion taking Granny
Smith as an example, where when they first arrived on these
shores they were greeted with fanfare and eagerness, and in
fact they tasted like something, but now they might as well
be sweet-and-sour potatoes. Apples have degraded in our
lifetimes almost as badly as peaches, where grapes have if
anything improved - some of the firmest and best-traveling
varieties actually have some flavor, and the choice is better
than the green, green, or green of our youth; I attribute
this to an expanded awareness due to the popularization of
wine. Apples have no such champion product, and the reviewed
Crispin line is just not good enough to fulfill that role.

 DS> When we lived in England, I prefered the cider at some pubs to any
 DS> beer served there.  Especially one pub who had something called scrumpy
 DS> that he would only serve to regulars.  Years later when I went back for
 DS> a conference, the same publican denied ever having heard of it.

It was probably an unregulated under-the-table version, and
when you ceased to be a regular, you became an object of
suspicion, as perhaps in the intervening years you had been
co-opted by the revenuers or somebody.

 DS> On another topic -- I think that this recipe below would *NOT* come up
 DS> to what you and I think of as a good crabcake, although it might be
 DS> decent and perhaps just as good made with any good firm whitefish.
 DS> Title: Lake Des Allemande Crab Cakes

The Cajun seasonings would take away from the purity of
flavor but might, as you say, produce a decent-tasting
dish that would not be improved by wasting sweet expensive
crabmeat on it. If crabs were plentiful and cheap, as they
must by the looks of it have been in the bayoux (I've
never used this term before! It's more historically proper
than bayous, and when I was a child was more frequently
found), varying the dish with green pepper and such might
be justifiable. Or if one cut down these extraneous things
by a factor of maybe 5 or 10, something imperiallike might
happen, not a bad thing.

Crab and apple salad, curry mayonnaise
categories: shellfish, fruit, summer
servings: 6

h - For the crab salad
1 lb fresh, cleaned Dungeness crabmeat
- drained of excess water
1/2 Fuji apple, peeled, small dice
1/2 stalk celery, small dice
1/2 European cucumber, seeds removed, small dice
- plus slices for topping
1 shallot, small dice
1/4 bulb fennel, small dice
1 ts fennel fronds, finely chopped
1 ts lemon zest, finely chopped
1/2 lemon, juice of
4 Tb curry mayonnaise
Kosher salt and white pepper to taste
h - For the curry mayonnaise
1 ts curry powder
1 egg yolk
1 ts lemon juice
1/2 c vegetable oil
Kosher salt and white pepper, to taste
h - To serve
1 c spicy greens (such as arugula,
- mustard greens, or cress)

Dungeness Crab and Fuji Apple Salad with Curry Mayonnaise

For the crab salad. In a large stainless steel bowl,
combine crab, apple, celery, cucumber, shallot, fennel,
and fennel fronds. Add lemon zest, lemon juice, and
mayonnaise, and gently fold ingredients together,
trying not to break up the crab too much, until well
combined and evenly covered with the mayonnaise.
Season.

For the curry mayonnaise. Place the curry powder, egg
yolk, and lemon juice in a small stainless steel bowl.
Slowly whisk in oil until ingredients thicken and a
creamy consistency is formed. If the consistency is
too thick, slowly add small amounts of cold water
until the mixture resembles a spreadable mayonnaise.
Season.

To serve. On a chilled plate, place crab salad on a
bed of spicy greens and top with a spoonful of
remaining curry mayonnaise and sliced European
cucumbers.

Advance preparation: The mayonnaise may be made ahead
and kept in a sealed container for several days in the
refrigerator. The recipe yields more curry mayonnaise
than needed for the crab salad, but it is a special
treat to have on hand. The extra mayonnaise makes a
delicious spread for sandwiches.

Substitutions and options: Jonah crab is the best
substitute in this recipe because it has a similar
sweetness and appearance to Dungeness crab. If
substituting lump meat from blue crab, the salad will
have a more buttery flavor and a less stringy texture.
This is not a bad thing, just different.

You may substitute other sweet apple varieties, like
McIntosh or Delicious, but do not use tart varieties
such as Granny Smith. The additional sourness will
throw off the balance of flavors.

Stu Stein, The Sustainable Kitchen

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