Text 7965, 69 rader
Skriven 2013-12-18 23:04:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av RUTH HAFFLY
Ärende: devolution restos 603
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 ML> I'd have imagined that there would be more winners than there
 ML> are, because the lousy ones would wither and go away. Apparently
 ML> not so: the winners also wither and go away for various reasons.
 RH> Probably because they're out in the middle of nowhere and nobody knows
 RH> about them.

I've known a few places whose remoteness contributes to
their mystique, though. The Herbfarm in Washington state,
L'Auberge Chez Francois outside Washington DC, and the
Inn at Little Washington in Washington VA come to mind.
 
 ML> now it's gone, a lost bit of local history and color.
 RH> Sigh!

I miss more the history and color than I do the Hilltop
itself.
 
 ML> "Expanded big time," either in the number of locations or
 ML> the number of seats, is so often the kiss of death.
 RH> In this case, it was the number of seats. T&W's expanded that way also
 RH> but kept their quality.

It seems that usually expansion is the mark of a new
generation. If the new generation is capable of sufficient
stick-to-it-iveness, continued success is a possibility.
 
 RH> I see, and will appreciate it more next time I see it on a menu.
 ML> Or at least understand why its presence kicks up the price
 RH> Yes, now I know the rest of the story.
 
XO sauce actually might make a good substitute for the
sherry or rice wine that often creeps into Asian recipes.

Anticuchos
cat: offal, Peruvian, celebrity
servings: 2 to 4

8 dried Puya chiles or 4 dried California chiles, wiped clean
4 chiles de arbol
2 Tb annatto seeds
1 garlic clove, peeled
1 ts cumin seeds
1/2 cured wine vinegar
1 jalapeno chile, stemmed, seeded and roughly chopped
1/2 c olive oil
2 ts salt
1 lb beef hearts, trimmed of all sinew and silverskin

Remove stems from chiles and shake out and discard seeds.
In small saucepan place chiles with enough water to
cover. Bring to a boil, remove from heat and let sit 20
min to soften. Drain and discard water. In a blender
combine dried chiles, annatto seeds, garlic, cumin,
red wine vinegar and jalapeno. Puree at high speed
1 - 2 min, or until thick and smooth. Add olive oil
and salt and blend again until mixed. Cut beef hearts
into 2 x 1/4" strips. Place in a bowl, pour over chile
mixture and toss to coat evenly. Cover and marinate in
the refrigerator at least 4 hr or overnight. Preheat
grill or broiler. Thread 4 - 5 pieces of beef heart on
a bamboo skewer. Grill until seared on all sides,
3 - 5 min. Serve hot.

Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger
 

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