Text 22363, 186 rader
Skriven 2007-11-06 09:56:00 av DAVE DRUM (1:123/140)
Kommentar till en text av JIM WELLER
Ärende: Re: Chowdah 1
=====================
On 10-09-07 JIM WELLER Scribbled to DAVE DRUM about Re: Chowdah 1
JW>I won't take that bet after all. I now know that cioppino is a San
JW>Francisco invention. I've been looking around the web for the real
JW>history and kept hitting unsubstantiated stories and outright urban
JW>legends but I think I finally found the answer:
JW>From: http://query.nytimes.com
JW>January 24, 1990 DE GUSTIBUS;
JW>Now It Can Be Told: The Dark Tale of Red Clam Chowder By MOLLY
JW>O'NEILL
This sounds a little bit plausible ... but, like most pseudo-science it
starts to unravel at the seams when you look at some of the basic
assumptions.
JW>ON Dec. 25, 1978, Austin Phelps Winters sat down at his typewriter
JW>to set about straightening out the facts as they pertained to his
JW>grandfather William H. Winters and Manhattan clam chowder.
JW>It was a difficult moment for Mr. Winters, who was born in New York
JW>City in 1906. How do you tell your children they are progenies of
JW>the self-proclaimed inventor of Manhattan clam chowder?
JW>Mr. Winters believed that his grandfather's was a heinous act. And
JW>for generations, public opinion concurred. Tomatoes were an anathema
JW>to chowder. Chowder, from ''chaudiere,'' the French word for a
JW>caldron, certainly implied cream. According to John Mariani's
JW>''Dictionary of American Food & Drink'' (Ticknor & Fields, 1983),
JW>Breton seamen who sailed to Newfoundland, Nova Scotia and New
JW>England in the 17th and 18th centuries invented the dish. If French
JW>sailors were minding the pot, there is no doubt that it contained
JW>cream.
So, how did these Froggish fisherfolk and sailors keep their cream fresh
enough to use in their soups while at sea??? Fishing (and sailing) in
those days was not a day-boat trip. And I doubt most strongly the
presence of refrigeration past ice brought along to cool the catch.
JW>By the late 18th century, chowder was a staple of the Eastern
JW>seaboard. Mr. Mariani said Rhode Island (Portuguese) cooks began
JW>adding tomatoes to their chowder, ''a practice,'' he wrote, ''that
JW>brought unremitting scorn from chowder fanciers in Massachusetts and
JW>Maine. The public, he concluded, decided that only people who lived
JW>in New York were crazy enough to add tomatoes to chowder and named
JW>the dish accordingly.
So this mug says that Manhattan is blamed for what Rhode Islanders (part
of New England) got up to??? And what of the Rhode Island Clear (no
dairy) chowder???
JW>Richard J. Hooker, who wrote ''The Book of Chowder'' (Harvard Common
JW>Press, 1978), found contradictory evidence in recipes. Manhattan
JW>clam chowder, he wrote, ''may have descended from the chowders
JW>served during the late 19th century at Coney Island stands.'' In
JW>1894 Charles Ranhofer, famed chef of Delmonico's Restaurant,
JW>published a tomato-based clam soup called Chowder de Lucines in his
JW>book, ''The Epicurean'' (Ranhofer, 1908).
For every expert there is another who will call him a rhinestone studded
rhodium plated liar and fool. Bv)=
JW>Nevertheless, Manhattan clam chowder remained ''a notable heresy.''
JW>In 1939 a Maine legislator introduced a bill outlawing the use of
JW>tomatoes in chowder but was unsuccessful in getting it passed. In
JW>1940 Eleanor Early lambasted the ''terrible pink mixture'' in her
JW>book, ''New England Sampler'' (Waverly House). Manhattan clam
JW>chowder, she wrote, ''is only a vegetable soup, and not to be
JW>confused with New England clam chowder, nor spoken of in the same
JW>breath. Tomatoes and clams, have no more affinity than ice cream and
JW>horseradish.''
There is that pseudo-religious fervor again. See below ....
JW>No wonder cooks didn't rush to claim the invention. The culinary
JW>variation reverberated like an act of sabotage against the New
JW>England clam chowder tradition. As he sat at his typewriter, Mr.
JW>Winters suffered the stigma of the claim he was about to reveal.
JW>''Dear Girls,'' he typed:
JW>''Papa's father, William H. Winters, was born in East Marion, Long
JW>Island, and had one bachelor brother, James. After the Civil War, in
JW>which he was a blockade runner, he was run out of town (I was told
JW>by an old old lady from East Marion) and he and his brother went to
JW>Brooklyn and opened a fish store on Fulton Street. After the
JW>Brooklyn Bridge was built they moved across to Manhattan, but kept
JW>the name, Fulton Fish Market, which became a fairly big operation,
JW>including running clambakes for political clubs, like Tammany Hall.
JW>''Clam chowder used always to be made with milk, but they decided
JW>that was too expensive, so they started substituting tomatoes and
JW>called it Manhattan clam chowder,'' he typed.
JW>Long before contemporary health concerns and regional chauvinism
JW>bestowed a chic on the dish, William Winters bragged about his
JW>invention. He told his grandson he and his brother made the vats of
JW>Manhattan clam chowder that were served on the vote-buying cruises
JW>that Tammany Hall sponsored. ''He was proud of it!'' recalled his
JW>grandson with horror in a recent telephone interview. ''I can't
JW>stand the tomato stuff!''
JW>In the letter, which Austin Winters's daughters donated to the
JW>archives at the South Street Seaport Museum, he laments, ''Isn't it
JW>awful, to be the grandson of the inventor and not liking it at
JW>all.''
So, what we have here is folk lore taken as fact. And ignoring the FACT
that no one claims that Manhattan Chowder is the same as, or
interchangeable with New England STYLE Chowder.
MMMMM----- Recipe via Meal-Master (tm) v8.06
Title: Horseradish Ice Cream W/Red Tomato Vinaigrette
Categories: I scream, Snacks, Chilies
Yield: 10 servings
2 c Whole milk
2 c Whipping cream
10 lg Egg yolks
3 oz Horseradish cream
1 ts Salt
6 Vine ripened beefsteak
- tomatoes
2 tb Red wine vinegar
1 tb White vinegar
1/2 ts Mild chile powder
1 cl Garlic; fine mince
1/2 ts Coarse salt
2 Sprigs Fresh tarragon
- (leaves only)
-=OR=-
1 ts Crumbled dried tarragon
1 ts Fresh coarse ground black
- pepper
2 tb Extra-Virgin olive oil
Whisk together the milk and cream in a heavy pan and bring to a boil
over medium-high heat. Whisk together the egg yolks, horseradish and
salt in a bowl. Add the milk mixture gradually, whisking constantly,
then pour the mixture back into the pan onto very low heat, whisking
all the time over the heat until it thickens enough to coat the back
of a spoon.
DO NOT let mixture boil. Pour mixture into a medium bowl set into
a larger bowl filled with ice and beat the mixture for about 3 minutes
to cool it. Once cool, pour half the mixture into an ice cream maker
and churn until ready; transfer to a freezing container and hold in
the freezer while processing the remaining mixture.
Meanwhile, quarter the tomatoes and chop them roughly. Place in a food
processor with the remaining ingredients, except the olive oil. Blend
until pureed. Gradually add the olive oil and blend for 1 minute.
Strain the mixture to remove skin and seeds, pressing down hard to
extract all the juices.
Put the vinaigrette into a bowl with a tight-fitting lid and
refrigerate for at least 3 hours. Shake well, and pour a little
tomato vinaigrette into the bottom of small ramekins or bowls. With a
melon scooper, scoop out small balls of horseradish ice cream and
arrange them on top of the vinaigrette. Dish may be garnished with
cracked pepper, or small tomato-skin roses and fresh herb leaves, as
desired.
FROM: http://www.horseradish.org
MM Format by Dave Drum; 15 October 2007
Uncle Dirty Dave's Archives
MMMMM
ENJOY!!!
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