Text 39609, 93 rader
Skriven 2010-06-29 23:46:00 av JIM WELLER (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av DALE SHIPP
Ärende: Cruisers
================
 DS> I don't see a ferry as being the same as a cruise liner.
 
They are both large ocean going ships carrying a lot of passengers.
The Nfld ferries carry over 1200 passengers, 260 miles through
international waters, on a 14 hour trip. But Canadian ferries aren't
terrorist targets and don't need a ton of security.

MMMMM-----Meal-Master - formatted by MMCONV  2.10

     Title: Pincage
Categories: French, Info
  Servings: 4

      2    parts onion
      1    part carrot
      1    part celery
           Tomato paste
           Vegetable or olive oil
           Salt and pepper

Cut your vegetables depending on how you'll use them: In 1-inch
chunks if you're getting ready for a stock, or go ahead and chop
them fine if you'll use them as a magic flavor-amping stir-in. (The
finer they're cut, the quicker the cooking time. And here's a
tip; cut the celery smaller than everything else.)

In a wide, heavy pan or pot, heat about a tablespoon of oil for
every pound of vegetables over medium heat until shimmering. Add the
onions and stir until coated. And now begins the long dark journey
into night.

Saute onions, stirring often, until they soften and turn clear.
Don't let it brown. Add carrots. Stir. You're going to be doing this
a lot, so you might as well get a drink. Stir. When the carrots are
starting to soften, turn the heat down to low. Stir every couple of
minutes. The point of all the stirring is to make sure that none of
the vegetables brown before the moisture gets really cooked out,
because they'll be in the pan a long time, and you don't want to
burn them. Sprinkle with just a little salt and pepper.

When the carrots and onions are richly browned and have lost a lot
of volume (we're talking at least a half-hour here, and perhaps much
more, depending on how much you're making), add a few spoonfuls of
tomato paste, just enough to coat everything lightly. Cook,
stirring, until the tomato paste is rusty, brick-colored. Sprinkle
with just a little salt and pepper.

Add the celery. The celery is where this gets really annoying,
because it will just give off water all night long, but you'll be
able to tell because you can see the steam. Stir, a tiny bit of
salt, you know how this goes. Keep cooking until the celery totally
softens or everything else threatens to go from deep brown to burnt
black. Give the whole mess a taste. It might be a little too much on
its own to truly be enjoyable, but give it a stir into any soup,
sauce or whatever else, and see how sinister it gets.

Recipe Notes

While mirepoix adds a clean, fresh, vegetal complexity to your food,
a lovely background, its evil twin pincage is much more assertive.
Pincage (pen-sazsh, or something like that) is all about darkness;
you slowly cook mirepoix (with the addition of tomato paste for more
sweetness, balancing tartness, and oomph) to concentrate, soften and
caramelize the sugars for an incredibly complex brown flavor.

Traditionally, pincage is used instead of mirepoix in brown stocks
(where the bones are roasted before simmering), but I find it to be
a superb thing to keep on hand for whenever I want to make something
with huge, deep flavor. It's great for stirring into sauces of
almost any sort, into stews and braises, or even, say, stirring it
into a pasta or a grain salad to amp up the flavor. (Friends of mine
make a salad of farro; you can use rice, quinoa, orzo, whatever with
pincage, feta cheese, parsley, garlic, olive oil and vinegar. They
had it at their wedding and liked it so much they figured out how to
make it for their restaurant.) And best of all, you can make pincage
and keep it in the freezer for whenever you need it. It's like
having pure evil in your pocket. In a good way.

Published in: Salon

  From: Terrypogue To: Foodwine         
 
MMMMM-------------------------------------------------


Cheers

YK Jim


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