Text 23220, 73 rader
Skriven 2012-04-02 01:49:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
Ärende: trip 475
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We landed a bit early. Immigration was a breeze, and even
after touring around the airport a bit, we had plenty of
time to take the S-bahn and stroll around before heading
to the Hauptbahnhof to catch our train to Fuessen. We alit
at Marienplatz, and after taking her on a tour of the
salient features of the neighborhood (someone was playing
Widor at the Frauenkirche), I steered Lilli to Augustiner,
where a not unwilling but extremely put-upon waiter took a
huge long time to take our orders and fetch our brews: I
had a Maximator, which was malty, rich, and pretty alcoholic
(about 8 normally, probably more for Starkbierfest). Though
the Haxen called loudly, the regional train at 1351 called
louder, and we forwent eating and hustled to the station.

The train was rickety, dirty, altogether ramshackle, and
surprisingly crowded. Well, maybe not so surprising, as
it was a Friday afternoon.

The ride itself, however, was pleasant enough, the scenery
going from ordinarily pastoral to foothills picturesque to
Alpine majestic. We pulled into Fussen right on time, and
the bus, as advertised, was waiting to ferry dozens of
tourists to Hohenschwangau.

It's not much of a town - aside from the two famous castles,
all we could see was a string - not a long one - of inns,
eateries, and souvenir shops. I suppose this beats what must
have obtained in the 19th century - laborers' quarters and
merchant facilities all dependent on their noble neighbors.

We'd seen an Internet special for E470 for four nights at
the Schlosshotel Lisl, dinner and breakfast included, plus
admission to both castles (apparently not easy to get) and
the Museum of the Bavarian Kings: a very fine deal, but sold
out. The property offered us accommodation at the fancier
Villa Jaegerhaus for E100 more. I inquired about packages
for a shorter stay, as it appeared the two castles, though
spectacular, wouldn't amuse us for five days and four nights
- but it turns out the two night package cost almost as much
as the four night one, so after some consultations we
decided to go for it.

It was a steep little hike up the road from the bus stop to
our new home: the map at the foot of the road seemed to
indicate a longer walk; it really took about five minutes
even dragging our stuff with us past the tourist traps.

It turns out that the switch was much better than the bait.

We checked in at the Lisl and then headed across the street
to the Jaegerhaus, which turns out to be a quite nicely
appointed property with I believe twelve rooms. Ours was on
the top floor, which Lilli didn't appreciate at first. Turns
out it's one of the smaller accommodations but altogether
very enjoyable: an attic room crammed full of furniture in
the hundred-years-ago style except for the giant-screen TV.
Couch, two armchairs, a large corner desk and its chair, and
a couple tables and/or drawer sets that I didn't pay any
attention to. Small beds: I was a gentleman and took the one
under the roof slope, seeming to guarantee that I'd bump my
head either going to or from or both. Surprisingly, in many
tries I did so only twice. Two dormers, one with a distant
view of Neuschwanstein, which was swathed a la Christo in
plastic wrap, the other with a quite good close look at
Schloss Hohenschwangau, of which the bathroom had the
perfect picture postcard view in addition to its full bath,
shower, and two sinks.

Nice digs, only we didn't spend a whole lot of time there.

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