Text 23245, 87 rader
Skriven 2012-04-02 13:01:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
Ärende: trip report 483
=======================
It had been a very fine day - bright sunshine and in the
mid to upper 50s, so after taking a stroll around what
little town there was, and snacking at the Allgauer Stuberl
on a glass of Tyrolean Edelvernatsch for her and Kaltenberg
Spezial beer for me, we caught sunset over the Alpsee
and then went up past Galerie Lisl (the shopping center)
for the first of our included meals, which of course was at
Restaurant Lisl. When we arrived at 6:30 we were the only
people in the place - uh oh, thought we.

The traditionally-clad waitress who greeted us didn't
speak English (at least her English was worse than my
German). Not a big issue, but she disappeared shortly to
be replaced by a bustly rather jolly older woman who had a
few words of simple English, sharing duties with a grumpy
tall almost caricaturish waiter, you know, white combover,
skinny so you know he can't really like to eat, walks as if
his feet hurt, which no doubt they do. And refusing to
acknowledge us if we spoke to him in anything but German,
though once it became clear that this didn't bother us and
that I could sort of communicate in the local lingo, he
was perfectly willing to talk to us in fragmentary but
completely correct English.

There was a reservations card with my name on it and a
printed menu that went thus:

Mixed spring salad with fried prawns or
Salsify cream soup with smoked duckbreast

Salmon fillet on tomato-leek ragout and Noodles

Poppyseed Dumplings with cherry roaster

I ordered an Austrian Lemberger or something at E25, but
what came was the CS Spatburgunder 09 from Baden at E29.50,
actually a somewhat better wine, so I didn't complain.

Rolls and a multigrain bread with sunflower seeds came
along with an herb (mostly parsley and chives with a little
chervil) butter and a turmeric spread that was a bit nasty.

We both went for the soup, which could have been cream of
anything, but quite savory, the duck very mildly salted and
smoked. A pretty good course. Maybe, despite it not being
spring yet and I believe prawns not being abundant in the
Alpsee, I should have tried the other starter, but at this
early stage we were just a hair apprehensive about the
cooking.

Lilli doesn't eat fish. We let the waitress know, and
chicken comes to those who wait: three large medallions
cooked in the same style as my fish but somewhat nicer, as
the salmon had obviously been done first and the chicken to
order. I got a nicely done, generous piece of salmon that
had dried out a bit in the waiting and needed every drop
of the beurre blanc that had been fairly generously applied.
The tomato-leek ragout was as you'd expect, only butterier;
some of the leek strips were a bit tough, though. The
noodles had soaked in butter as well: they were relatively
thin, relatively al dente, and reasonably good-tasting.

Toward the end of the meal a couple showed up - seems they
were on the same plan as ours, so we saw them at breakfast
and dinner throughout the trip.

The poppy dumpling was not as good as I'd hoped - three
not too heavy and not too sweet dough balls shot through
with poppy seeds some of which were not of first freshness.
Cherry roaster means a fairly decent sour cherry compote in
quite generous portion. A ground cherry served as garnish.

It was pretty chilly when we retraced the twenty paces or
so to our quarters.

Both castles are floodlit at night, Neuschwanstein turning
off its lights in the wee hours but Hohenschwangau keeping
them on, which provided an adequate night light for the
bathroom.

The beds were comfy though a little cramped and provided us
plenty of sleep, aided by lovely radiators that didn't clank
and hissed only a tiny bit.

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