Text 12088, 90 rader
Skriven 2014-04-11 16:39:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av JIM WELLER
Ärende: Canadian Caper 490
==========================
 ML> Lucky you didn't have the creme brulee.
 JW> I skipped dessert that might and had a liqueur with my coffee. It
 JW> was probably either Drambuie or Irish Mist.

Best choice, in retrospect. Even a ruined custard can be
made into a decent dessert by various remedial techniques,
straining, disguising by layering with cake ("trifle"), and
so on, but they didn't do it.

 JW> Perhaps the culinary grads all want to work at famous 3 star places
 JW> or get a TV program right off the bat.

Perhaps. It's the same with conservatory kids.

 There is always a need for
 JW> good cooks, college grads or not, in institutional settings,
 JW> especially high paying remote mining camps. To boss a team serving
 JW> 1500 covers a day is no mean feat.

But where's the glamo(u)r in that?

 JW> My nephew Lionel just quit the De Beers Snap Lake kitchen after 6
 JW> years there and he had four offers in two days just by announcing on
 JW> Facebook and Linked In that he was available.

Why did he leave?

 JW> My buddy Sato (the Fuego's owner) has been looking for a chef for 3
 JW> months without success, since his last one quit to set up his own
 JW> place. He reluctantly came out of retirement for the third time
 JW> to do it himself temporarily.

Hum. Two adjacent paragraphs. One idea?

Tuna-caviar appetizer
Categories: California, starter, unnecessarily luxurious
Serves: 4

h - For the cured toro
1/2 lb toro
1 c sugar
1 1/2 c salt
1 lemon, zest of
1 lime, zest of 
1 orange, zest of 
1 ts ground white peppercorn
1 ts ground coriander
1 ts ground fennel seed
3 Tb vodka
1 piece parchment paper
2 pieces fig wood (or other fruit wood)
1 lg bag ice
h - For the garnish
1 Tb creme fraiche, in squirt bottle
1 spring onion - shave the bulb, julienne the tops
Lemon zest
Daikon sprouts
1 Tb Osetra caviar

Cold-smoked toro with Osetra caviar, creme fraiche,
and daikon sprouts

Mix sugar, salt, zests, white peppercorn, coriander, fennel
seed, and vodka together. Spread half the cure mixture on
parchment paper. Lay the toro atop the cure and bury it with
the remaining cure. Fold the parchment over and lightly weigh
down (with a carton of milk, for example). Allow to cure 1 hr.

Remove the toro from the cure. Rinse in cold water and dry
with a paper towel. Place cured toro in a strainer. Light the
fig wood over a burner, place smoking branches in a large
metal bowl. Place 4 large ring molds or ramekins in the bowl,
one in each corner. Place a wire rack on top of the ring
molds. Place a large bag of ice on the wire rack. Place the
strainer with the toro on top of the ice. Fold quickly into
foil wrap and allow to cold smoke for 30 min. Place the
smoked toro in the freezer to chill.

Use a deli slicer to shave the toro into 1/8" slices. Work
slice by slice, laying each on a plate as quickly as possible.
Garnish each plate with several small dollops of caviar, a
few small drops of creme fraiche, the sliced onion and
sprouts, and lemon zest. Serve with warm bread.

Christopher Kostow, Meadowood Napa Valley


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