Text 29934, 114 rader
Skriven 2015-08-12 05:17:00 av MICHAEL LOO (1:123/140)
     Kommentar till en text av NANCY BACKUS
Ärende: sushi 80
================
 NB>> But doesn't take him much longer to make...  :)
 ML> True, but the time taken has little to do with the taste
 ML> experience.
 NB> True... to some extent....  of course, we also benefit here from his
 NB> years of experience, which contributes both to the taken time, and the
 NB> wonderful taste experience...  :)

Truth. Knife skills, picking good ingredients, putting them
together imaginatively or classically accurately, depending
on where you're aiming.

 ML> And yucky pickled things, at that!
 NB> Potentially yucky pickled things, anyway... but he does have some
 NB> pretty tasty pickled things, too... (G)

OK, I grant, many of the things (burdock root, cucumber,
sour plums) taste better pickled than unpickled, but I'd
rather not go too deeply into that subject.

 ML> So they will grow up to be engineers, not sushi chefs. Ah,
 ML> well, the hours would be less brutal. 
 NB> Indeed...  ;)

Unless they become software engineers, in which case they
will stay up 48 hours at a time, fueled with Diet Coke and
cold pizza. H'm - maybe being a sushi chef would be a
better deal.

 ML> I read an article about Emily Warren Roebling, who took over
 ML> from her husband supervising the Brooklyn Bridge when he was
 ML> incapacitated by the bends. Most interesting.
 NB> Back to our unsung female heroes thread...  :)  My great-grandfather
 NB> supposedly was one of the engineers that built the Brooklyn Bridge.

Cool. There must have been a scad them on site, because
that was one of the most audacious building projects ever
attempted. They must be documented someplace.

 ML> Foie gras should be messed with as little as possible.
 NB> Some lilies wilt under gilding, eh...?

And the rawer the better. In the last decade or so the
stuff has begun to be appreciated in the way that I always
thought suited it best - chilled and shaved into thin
slices, heat above body temperature never having assaulted
it. I first had it this way in October 2000, and Ian was
astonished at how good it was - apparently it just wasn't
done back then. (Turns out Rocco DiSpirito was experimenting
with uncooked foie at the time, but his was salt-cured and
marinated, see below.)

 ML> It's the overtired part I worry about. I don't want him to
 ML> burn out - at least not before I get to sample his wares.
 NB> Some incentive to make it sooner than later, perhaps...?  ;)  I don't,
 NB> though, expect him to burn out particularly soon... he's taking too
 NB> much delight in complaining in how he's so tired

Aah, he's lost a little bit of my sympathy now. But I guess
you two are in a special place, and he gets to groan and moan
a bit, which he wouldn't do with regular customers.

Foie Gras Cru with Papaya and Summer Truffle
Categories: New York, poultry, offal, luxury
Yield: 10 servings

h - Marinade
Cognac
1 ts sugar
2 ts Madeira
1/4 ts ground cinnamon
1/4 ts ground fennel
2 ground cloves
White pepper to taste
h - Foie Gras Cru
1 lobe grade "B" foie gras, about 4 lb
Water to cover foie gras
1 Tb sea salt per qt of water
1 pn sel rose per qt of water
h - Marmalade
1 1/2 extremely ripe papayas
1/8 c olive oil
h - Summer Truffle Vinaigrette
1/4 lb summer truffles
2 Tb sherry vinegar
3 Tb olive oil
Salt to taste

Combine all marinade ingredients.

Make a brine by combining the water and two salts.
Separate the lobes of foie gras and place them in
the brine. Let sit 6 hr. Remove foie gras from brine
and devein. Place foie gras in the marinade and
marinate overnight. Shape foie gras into desired
shape. Refrigerate until hardened.

For the marmalade, puree ingredients in a blender.

For the vinaigrette. In a mortar and pestle, grind
truffles with salt and vinegar until a fine paste
is formed. Transfer to a pan and gently heat until
the liquid is near a simmer. Remove from heat. Allow
to infuse for 15 min. Pour olive oil on top of the
vinaigrette. Let sit overnight.

Slice foie gras and place slice on plate. Spoon a ring of
papaya puree and a ring of summer truffle vinaigrette
around the foie gras.

Rocco DiSpirito, Union Pacific, New York, NY

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